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Plenum volume and shape is where power is made. As said previously, Indy heads = Indy intake. Sometimes you just can’t have your cake and it too…

That is extremely stock and sounds extremely FUN! Heavier than my Ram 1500 too…

Sounds like a GREAT day! Congrats! Can you share...how "stock" is your Super Stock?? LOVE the green, too!

Come on now…You’re a successful businessman. How do you not KNOW that all of your equipment is insured?? This said with all due respect, of course…

I believe they were all successful businesses owners before TV came calling. Google search can fill in the blanks…

So build a 408 stroker with the RIGHT cam and intake with these heads and you will be an easy 400+ HP. But you will also be 450+ lb/ ft of torque. Torque, my friend, is what wins stoplight to stoplight if you can hook it up and produces the most SPG: Smiles per Gallon.

That is a HUGE gain!! High five! Now get it apart and tell us what is wrong please.

I will be very interested to know the cause of this. But…. ….What are the new best numbers???!!!

Been there done this…lol. First, primary shoes on both sides, front and rear of the brake assemblies. Second, brake pressure gauge and figure out by pumping the brakes prior to line lock engagement what works best. Or…in lieu of the second above, adjust the proportioning valve. This is of...

I only have a Holley black pump, an electric water pump, 2100 cfm 2 speed fan and an MSD 6AL as accessories, but this 13 pound battery has been very impressive. It will sit unhooked for 2 months and still have 12.2-12.8 volts before cranking.

.002 light. Then broke out by .02. Duh…

Index racing, 10.0, 11.0, super comp, super gas and super street is a completely different approach than dial in (bracket, stock and super stock) racing. For a fixed index deal, make it run .5 quicker in the worst air and “throttle stop” it back somehow to run the number. Goal is as much MPH...

Thats funny! Because I thought with that cam and compression...John Bonam drum solo!

And/or...it’s the wrong converter for the combo. Most converter slip is controlled through the design of the converter for a specific application.

Because I already have a mini one-wire. GREAT looking engine and compartment!!! Love the valve covers!!

Small block. Updated my question. Sorry about that!

For those of you using a moroso (or like) water pump on a small block... What brackets are you using for your alternator. Specifically a mini alternator. Thanks!

You betcha. I was just curious as to the overall flow numbers between the two intakes. My thoughts had nothing to do with the specific application.

Can you get the two intakes on a flow bench for a real CFM comparison??

Step up, my ***! FCA has all but abandoned the little guy. Those who would buy old school blocks, heads, etc. GM has shown who is loyal to the working man. “Mopar” now sucks, plain and simple.

Throwing parts at it, especially expensive shocks is the wrong approach with what you have and what you’re trying to do. If it were me... 1) Remove the rear clamps on the leafs 2) Unhook/remove the front sway bar 3) Run it 3a) Lose the Nittos and replace with MT or M&H drag radials MANY a...

I have used a few summit brand parts and have had good luck. Except... ...for their SFI balancer several years ago. The bond came unbonded and we had about 50 degrees of advance in the motor that did some damage. Never again...ATI or nothing. That said, I have been wondering about their ready...

This was/is a very impressive combo! No disrespect to Ken, but stock eliminator cars don’t count in this conversation. NOTHING stock about them; every area of the car is touched and retouched to gain performance with a limited (cough, cough) “stock” motor. That said, here is a real world combo...

Since you’re going to cut it once... Cut it and box it as far as you need to in order to remove the pan is what I would do. Bonus is some weight removal.

Whatever you choose, don’t skimp based on price. Don’t ask me how I know... For me, it will always be ATI or nothing.

Gotcha. I have one unbolted one come out. It was only at 65 mph on the freeway, but it was a handful to get it stopped. Since then, I’ve said “never again”.

Guys, this wasn’t posted to start a debate. Simply an idea to overcome a problem I had and maybe help someone else. If you’ve never bolted one down, good for you. I wanted mine bolted down.

Oh I sure could have...lol!

My small block in my 69 dart has just enough engine set back to cause me grief. Lokar was out of stock until December so I bought a copy on eBay. Piece of crap it was! The Hughes steel version I bought previously was impossible to install. The tab for the trans bolt couldn’t slip over a stud...

Interesting on the fuel pressure info. But good move following Thumpers advice. He is the carb MAN!