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I am just going to get another engine at this point.

No noise from the lower end though??? Only sounds like lifters at top end are starving for oil. No rapping from bottom end at all.When I tore the motor down after the oil pump shaft issue, there were no shavings in the pan or screen. Just a fiber like substance which I was able to clean out. Oil...

That may be possible. I am not sure. Would these gaskets block off the oil passages?

It is definitley a low pressure issue. It seems to be from the top end starving for oil. Both stock rocker arms are on correctly. When I first put this motor back together I had some sort of blockage which caused the oil pump shaft to break. I tore it down and put in a new pump, shaft and pickup...

Probably a dumb question. I changed out the heads on my Duster about a year and a half ago and used a pair of stock heads off a 360 motor. I have noticed that the compression is low and it seems as though the top end is starving for oil and has low oil pressure. I get 30 psi at start up, and...

Here you go: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=152295&highlight=cylinder+head

I am having the same issue with my motor. low oil pressure to the heads. At start up I am getting 40 lbs. as soon as the engine gets warmed up the pressure drops to 20 psi and at idle drops to 10 psi. I swapped out the cam last year but did not do the cam bearings. Also installed new double...

Wow that sucks!! Sorry to have seen and heard about this. Good to hear you and your grand daughter are OK.

Use a brass plug with teflon tape.

Bought the engine. Got it for $150.00 Complete minus carb, starter and alternator.

Thanks for the help. Now I have to make a decision on if it is worth buying for $200.00. Don't really need this block but hate to see it get trashed.

Block has a date code of 3-4-66. Not sure of the numbers on the side of the block. I think that this is an early year 273. Info I got was that this motor came out of wrecked 67 Dart GT. I removed the rocker arms and got the numbers off the block. I cannot post the pictures I took of the block...

Thanks. What should I be looking for as far as the pistons go. Plugs are out of it.

Thanks for the info. Block is out of car and I can get a really good look at it tomorrow. I will be going over to look at it tomorrow. VC's are off. Any way to determine heads?? I'll bring camera and take pics.

I don't believe it is a poly block based on the heads. It may in fact be a 273. I will go back and look at the freeze plug location. There is no numbers stamped on the drivers head seam. Block is clean and does not have a lot of grime on it. I have been told it has never been opened up except...

Numbers on other side of block do not indicate any displacement ID#. They appear to be a serial or manufacture sequence #'s

I got the chance to get a complete small block Mopar engine with the Date code of 3-4-66. There are a series of numbers stamped on the drivers side of the block that I do not have as of yet but was interested in asking which cubic inch displacement that this engine may be. I thought it may be a...

Loosen up the motor mounts on each side and jack the motor up about 4-6 inches. The drivers side header is harder than the passengers side. Separate the steering linkage on the drivers side and you should be good to go. A mini starter from a 90's era Dakota is always a great alternative to the...

Bad valve seals??

hope this helps http://www.mopar1.us/headcastnumber.html

Sounds like something is slapping around in that motor. That is loud.

I filed/sanded down the area I used the JB on and was able to reshape the distributor flange around the block. I used a ball of duct tape and reversed the tape on the top and it caught all the filings and vacuumed the rest with a shop vac. Nothing got into the intake. I then put a light bead of...

Good idea using the mirror.

Thanks for the help Rob. Wife has a small mirror and i am going to put it to use and check.

Tracy, I do understand what you are saying regarding the O ring seal that sets in the groove around the dist. and how it sets against the sides of the opening in the block. the chip in the casting around the block does not extend through to this area so the dist MUST be leaking around the base...

I only have the broken one. When I get it back together I may try to put some paper towels around the back of the manifold and around the distributor after its bolted down and see if I can see where the oil is leaking from. It looks like it is coming from the dizzy as there is oil leaking down...

I am wondering if the new oil shaft may be a tad taller than the stock one which broke. I am going to pull it out of the block and check it against the old shaft and see if there is any differences. The new shaft is from Melling and I have heard of some quality issues with Melling parts.

O ring is seated in the groove and is brand new. I have removed and inspected the groove and the O ring and both are free of any defects or damages. The break is on the outside edge and extends just to the edge of the machined groove that the dizzy sits in.

I have crankshaft ventilation, and as far as I can measure, I believe the shaft is short enough. I am going to re measure the distance tomorrow and see if there is any variation which may be causing the dizzy to not seat all the way down.

I have blocked off the opening of the distributor and I am going to try to build it up in layers to get the contour of the block back.