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I dont think"Hemidude" could tune anything. LOL! maybe I need an alter-ego on here. You might have really started something here!

LOL! I was kinda wondering if there was really someone THAT gullible on here. Got me good.

The highest rpm below valve float that the car will still hook at. I would start around 4500 & work my way up.

Ok I gotta say something here, because I think you are sincere, and this seems a little unfair. The guys that are saying nines are having a little fun at your expense. To be blunt, its obvious by the way your question was phrased that you are, uh lets say less than experienced. No one on here...

Oh jeez...

In the "old days" most guys used towing hubs. And keep the 4.56s put some taller tires on it & drive it. 4.56s with 26" tall tires??You gotta be kidding!

The street-racing scene around here in the 80s after Mission closed was pretty wild. Viking Way, 200th by the Rose & Thistle pub & Superport were the real hot-spots. Latimore & Harvey Rd. & beside the freeway in Chilliwack, but those were not really money racing. But Viking Way and Superport...

Are we talking on the street, or on the track? Both, but more (a LOT more) on the street.

Yes.

Honestly, if you cant get it to hook with 4.89s, it probably wont hook with 4.10s or 4.5s either. Especially with the OD, I would go for the 4.89s. Hope you can shift good, cause that thing is gonna eat up first gear in a hurry.

Never thought much of most of the episodes I have seen, but that one from the first season with the guy from Texas in the white '70 Camaro playing rope-a-dope with the guy with the high-dollar orange Nova was the drag racing equivalent of watching Mohammed Ali take care of Sonny Liston...

What kind of tire are you gonna run?

Another good possibility.

105 is probably pretty reasonable. A lot of guys are surprised when they start doing the math to find just how much gear a slower car needs for optimum drag strip perf. The od is a big plus on the street

SBM doesnt need a button, the cam plate keeps the cam from walking forward. Check to make sure the distributor isnt bottoming in the drive, distributor pushing down on the drive when you tighten it?

You cant figure out rpm without having a trap speed. What do you expect it to run?

Just checked the Lunati website, they have a cam almost identical to my off the cuff cam recommendation, [email protected], .520 lift, 106 lobe separation. i would check the retainer to valve seal clearance, other than that you should be good to go. What valve springs are in the motor?

You can also try to crutch the intake by running a 1" 4-hole spacer. This should help with mid-range torque a bit with this combo, but its not a cut & dry deal, you will have to test it at the track. You will need to play with shooters & jetting either way.

Aother thing to consider, if you move to a more aggressive combo later with more compression, cam & cylinder head, the Strip Dominator will out-perform the RPM.

Soon as I read this I had the same thought. Rather than change the whole combination(gears, intake) to suit the cam, plug a bigger cam in it. You will go WAY faster, make more noise, and have more fun. I would look for something with duration around [email protected], on 108 deg lobe separation to...

Its ok, I should have been more clear. When I went back and looked at what we had posted, i could see how it was confusing. Thsi stuff is alot easier in person than it is in cyberspace.

Just realized I read your original post wrong. My answer implies that the SXT21 has the wider lobe centers & so would want more compression. Its the other way round, the DC 557 has the wider lobe centers, so the DC cam would want a little more compression. I never ran one myself, but I know...

The nice thing about the .509 is all the BBs I have tried will take it without any machine work. Its a good bolt-in gain. Of course, nowadays these motors are so old, you are always doing a ground-up engine, but back in the eighties, you could buy a BB car and plug a 509 & a set of hemi springs...

Yea, I realized that when I looked at my post, only the ones with a bracket beside them were changed. Kind of a paint in the *** if you are inserting cam specs in a post.

At my track (Mission BC) they check the kill every time they tech the car.

What the hell??! all my 8's are coming out as smilies??

They are almost the same cam, except the purple shaft has the lobe separation spread two degrees, (110 instead of 108)so it will like a tad more compression. I have the DC4120655 for the 360 I'm putting in my duster. Probably not the cam I would use if I was buying one today, but I've had it...

I think we have inadvertently caused some confusion here. His original post was about 245/60/14 BF Goodrich DRAG radials. He had made a typo, and meant to say 15", this is what grabbed my attention, as I had earlier gone to the Goodrich website looking for DRAG radials in this size for my Chevy...

DRAG radials?? I think you are talking about regular radials...

I have a set of used L-60 15 McCreary Road Stars, they work about as well as the full tread pattern Hoosiers(not the Quick-time Pros) They will probably go back on the Duster, if & when I ever put it back together.New baby & house shopping, so not much funds for toys right now. Hopefully that...