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I'm bringing this back for a question. I ran the 7805 set up years ago. Never drove the car much to see how. Accurate it was. I was just happy to have the gas gauge back working. I ordered some 7805s. Should be here in a few days. However...... I can get a 7806 6 volt output right now. What...

will the toyota denso work with my pulleys and brackets

what is the bottom of that bolted to?

now its a matter of getting this alternator on there

no, the battery stays charged....i would source a short before anything...they drive me nuts.....the voltage reg and the coil will be a 30 amp relay run powered by ignition switch...im guessing that is getting lower power at idle too...i just chant see that stuff flicker. I see what everyone...

bypassed the ammeter and ran 4 gauge welding cable direct to starter relay and then 4gauge to the battery....cleaned and re wired all the bulkhead connectors and replaced some.....cleaned all grounds.....im getting lots of voltage drop to the headlights....replaced the switch so im going with...

so right now with my current pulley system i cannot move this thing forward.....i have it where the pulleys line up perfectly...all i can really do is either move it out towards the passenger side fender like the poly 318 picture above or possibly run a tensioning idler pulley i did not expect...

im doing this to have more amps.....all my lights flicker, heater and probably everything else run by the current alternator... and the stock alternator is junk at low rpm. It doesnt put out even near what it does at high rpm....this alternator runs 50amps at idle and 120 above idle. It replaces...

then i can pound my valve cover back out:icon_smi:

at this point i might be able to go this route...if i can figure out how he did the lower bracket...the top is a mr gasket piece

looking closer, its the crank and water pump pulley causing the problem for me...they all look similar until you really compare them...i dont think my pulleys are from an original 68....that being said..i dont know what year my pulleys are from....

just have to figure it out from here....i have no idea what pulleys those are.....i do know....i dont have them.

i agree but look at the link above...he did exactly what im doing with the 68 water pump i just dont see why his worked and mine wont

there is no way that output stud can go any lower than it is right there in the picture...........in the tutorial its close but it fits.....with mine this far back the belts line up

http://home.roadrunner.com/~raffica/denso_swap.htm above is the directions on how to do the swap....my alternator is the same year from a dakota.....goes in a 68 318..just like the one in the tutorial... and doesnt fit as you can see.....i cant tension it from the top like it is now due to it...

I thought about going to the junk yard as well to pick up my relays.... Why i didnt: 1i wanted perfect clean new contacts with no voltage drop 2. I wanted bosch or tyco (for quality)spst relays......spst has (X2 87 pins) as opposed to an (87pin and an (87a pin-which does...

cibie

i was also looking into running e code....the best ones out there are the cibie, bosch, and hella from what i found is the difference between the bosch and hella are not too much....and the cibie was much better....better in the high beam low beam separation than the bosch or hella.... So im...

lol...thats a cool picture......i definitly dont think this would be a good idea using a single light either....i did this relay upgrade on my charger several years back when i saw it on mad electric... all 4 lights would light up when i hit the switch.......on the dart however...i didnt think...

you could wire those 2 relays together to a switch and have high and low at the same time.......super bright lights a 90 to 93 toyota corolla has a relay box with 5 large relays in it...no fuses

50 amp version of this is Bosch relay # 0 332 209 138 diagram for double 87 pin out 30 amp http://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/relays_0332019150.asp

i did what you said.....i got it to charge...........It started to over charge....then stopped charging...then over charged....then stopped charging......i drove the car 5 miles....the whole time it didnt charge........got it home.....it over charged.....then the v regulator lost power.....then...

the system is so simple. 4 wires a regulator and an alternator. I get no voltage from the output on the field terminals on the alternator. Im washed in voltage regulator hell......ive put 5 of them on this car .....2 of them brand new and then tested them...they showed bad. just put on #5 and...

it has the dual field wires. On day i was driving and the alternator bearings went out. i put a different alternator on it....this worked for a while and then it stopped charging. I then had the original rebuilt and had them both tested...both tested good. I replaced the regulator with 3...

I cannot get my car to charge....heres what ive done so far. replaced the regulator 2 times. has a 76 regulator on it. I get 12 volts running at the field wires. checked to see if the plug was bad. replaced the alternator with 2 used alternators. Both checked out on 3 parts stores machines...

new battery fixed the problem. the battery itself was shorting out

dont know yet if it is still shorting. the new battery is making the alternator not work as hard. the volt gauge used to fluctuate from 12 to 14 at all times and make the headlights flicker. it now stays at 13 constant

could it be a bad battery. i had it tested and it showed a negative. i bought a new one

ill check all of this. i did just install a tachometer. and tied in the light to my shifter to the head lights. it was only then that i had this problem. nothing is left on, i thought it was the alternator so i replaced it. still has the power draw.

there is no radio in the car. i have unhooked everything i can think of. it drains the battery from full charge in 2 days.