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A so called mechanic lost onre of my plug tubes... anybody got a spare?

This car will do 80 plus on the freeway easy, its when youre at a red light all the vibration at idle that drives me nuts.... Car dont smoke or knock...leads me to believe valve job time....

It has a miss, once in a while you hear a slight pop at the tailpipe, could it be a burnt valve, or maybe I need to redo the valve lash adjustment?

I wet tested 5 and 6 it only went up 5 psi on both

Here are my compression numbers: 1- 100 2-90 3-100 4-105 5-85 6-70 looks like somethings up on no.6 maybe carbon buildup? Any suggestions? Thanks Gary

Did you mean psi or percent?

Going to do a compresion test on 74 225 with around 70k miles, what would be good numbers?

got a few months invested here...

I'll get at that when it thaws out here. Thanks Dan, Gary

I'm guessing the rotor should move immediately when you turn the engine...

I WENT OUT AND FLIPPED THE VALVE, NO CHANGE NOTED. When it stops freezing here,..yes freeze and snow in Houston believe it or not, I plan to check for slop in the timing chain. No vacuum leaks detected, but manifold fitting really sucks in the air when uncapped. I'm starting to lean toward a...

I;ve been trying really hard to nip this problem, maybe I'll wind up at the Dealer and their tech will get on here too!! Cause I bet none of em know anything bout these old engines.....

I have a Haynes manual, shows the routing of all hoses. Will double check these a well.. Thanks

should I check it at idle and under a load??

That valve is only 25 dollars at autozone, I was just thinking of ways to eliminate unnecessary things, haven't checked vacuum at idle, cause it too cold out there this week. When it warms up a bit, I'll check it, and put a timing light on it again...if thats good, I guess I'll get a new EGR...

Went out, started it, let it warm a min. , pulled up on the stem, engine died.... what now?

Dan, I;ve been waiting on your input on this, I followed the method for valve lash adj. described by you, engine running,I have no vacuum leaks,I tested with carb cleaner,one thing you said sparked me... at night when the engine is idling, the lights flicker a bit, may be fire from alt...dont...

I've been doing a lot of research on this, these early (1974) emission control systems are a mess!!! In fact, in 1975, they installed a light in the dash so that you would service, clean, or replace the E G R valve every 15 K miles.... gonna do away with it...

It is too old for a required emmision test in Texas, its a Cal. car, and I just want to simplify things. The emission system on this thing is an easy way to develop vacuum leaks, I say do away with it if not mandatory.

That has to be the problem, i've done everything, valve adjustment, new dist. new carb, wires plugs cap rotor... name it , running out of options for process of elimination...

what a concept!!!!

I think this can be achieved by cutting a piece of flashing the outline of the valve base, and bolt it back using high temp silicone , the valve will still be there, but blinded between valve and intake. What do you think of this idea?(slip flashing between)

So, essentially, if I block the holes on the intake, problem solved???

Ok, then how?

Can the E G R valve cause my slant to idle roughly, is there a way to do away with it?

YEA,What slant6 dan said is the trick.

have a laugh on me, its the holidays, why not!!!!

true that!!!!

I figured that was b s cause its electronic, thanks buddy!!!

74- 225 slant 6 was running rough, got a mech to install a carb kit (1 bbl.) still idles rough, hesitates when you accelerate in park. He told me i need a new distributor because he checked the dwell and it fluctuated, this engine has electronic ign. could that make the engine miss, vibrate and...