Search results for query: *

Classic is class act.

Nah, just make sure the hood to radiator support seal is there.

Just put a tee on it.

Bad batch of Chinese junk.

Common problem there. Slather those 4 bolts with ant-seize; they will rust to the block.

A flex fan will cut/kill you to death. Can you take a pic of it, looking head to the break? Any signs of fatigue?

shrould- $, junkyard, or make your own. Rad, get a 3 core from local rad shop. Get all that crap out of the engine water passages.

Classic air. We just installed one on a Charger. Good set up.

We just built a 440. 3 row rad. 160 therm. It opened at 155, closed at 170. Too cold for hp. Installed a 180; 175, 185. The radiator has to be clean. Distilled water and anti freeze.

What size rad? that seems small. Local shop can do a 3 row. Therm sounds bad. It should keep temp between 175 and 185. Period. Radiator.

Try this, highway-65 mph, then run it at 50 mph. If it cools down=radiator

don't start your shat in here.

don't go there.

go buy a union-made pump.

So you delete the drag from the fan, and add power-robbing to the alternator. What power is picked up?

Let us see. A 440 we just got back from Dvorack Machine won't go above 160. At 32 degrees, because that long stroke needs less timing. Search Dvorack, and see how many titles he holds. I have spent a lot of time with him, and have learned more than you can on line. 440, 32 degrees, then adjust...

From my expierience, they went to overflow in 1970.

A company in Tampa, can't remember the name, Specialty something, we are probably buying a kit to replace the factory bs on a 69.

The radiator gets hot, water expands when hot. The cap lets water into the plastic tank. When the radiator cools down, the water cools, and contracts, the cap lets the system suck the water back in from the plastic tank. Over and over.

You need the resivoir. Sucks in and out.

Installing an aluminum plate on the carbs, with foam hitting the hood, would keep hot air from the carbs.

You can put foam pipe insulation on the top radiator support to seal to the hood. Cowl only keeps fumes out.

copper dissipates heat faster than alum. Have local shop fix that($350) for 3 core. Need under hood seal( a piece of plumbing insulation, the round stuff will work) over the top of the radiator support. The cowl seal is only for keeping engine fumes from the cowl, in fresh air mode.

Local dealer.

We have the dash out, an a 69 Charger, next week the heater core has to come out. With the room to look at it (we have never done this); we have loosened 4 nuts firewall- engine bay side. It is loose. But there is linkage, and the accuator is part of it.But easier to see with dash out, sounds...

The engine needs about 195 for hp; research it.

Leaves are easy; water or air into cowl grill, keep pushing a wire in and out of drains at rear of fender. Pine is harder, takes longer. You might be able to blow them out the lower manual air vents inside the car, if you have them. Then have a magnetic sign shop cut one to fit over the grille.

Fan is how close to radiator? What space between fan and side of shroud? Re-check rubber to radiator support. Cowl rubber only to keep engine fumes from entering cowl/passenger compartment.

Water in the oil? Take it back.

1250? Isn't that like the fart fan in a bathroom?