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I think they make a solid state replacement.

As was stated; check grounds(all), then test light from key forward.

ebay a specific year factory manual.

Get air in the system, it can cause this. Wild goose chase.

The middle wire is nss.

Am I going blind at 62? wasn't that rust at the bottom?

We did a full on restore on a 69 Charger. The wiring drove us nuts. Found hacked stereo wires, etc. Had a factory manual. Worked hard on all the grounds, including the front. Crap. No go every time. Then time for paint, owner had bought 1 switch already- pos. Then he found an nos , let the shop...

Got a pic of the existing plugs? That will tell. Advertised tells nothing, what is actually happening is the start point. Not being an azz; but is it decked? heads and pistons been checked? How much bleed off on the cam? It all fits together. Lets see them plugs.

Basically; set timing to highest idle, or vacuum, just by moving dist. then adjust carb, to idle back down. Then see what initial you have, and pull advance out of the dis, to keep it around a total of 34 to 36. Listen for knock, and adjust. Done. Know vacuum will run up to 54 degrees, under...

Basically; set timing to highest idle, or vacuum, just by moving dist. then adjust carb. Then see what initial you have, and pull advance out of the dist. Done.

Crap, can't remember company name. $65. Gave one to the body shop, those monkeys screwed it up. Bought another, did'nt over-tighten the screws, and perfect. If you can't find it on line. let me know. It was a bud's charger. he will know name.

And if that doesn't work; have fun with the new turn signal switch. Be very gentle with it.

I dunno, you may have other problems showing up.

While working on ammeter, install another dash to firewall ground.

When installing my batt in trunk, along with other wiring going on at the same time; I found that the firewall ground is too small. Get a battery cable, bolt to head, and bolt to kframe. Keep the little tiny firewall wire. Or, I installed a bigger one. Problems solved, you can't have enough...

Bench test the alt.

ammeter shows that is probably charging. Volt-meter shows how much(correctly spliced into a good spot). Volt will show over-charge. Amp will show you kinda. You really just need to know volts; if high, bad connection, or reg shot.

800 is good, 1000 better.

Looking ahead, I may be putting grand daughters into mopars. My question is: I know they fail, and can't start the car, but do they turn off the ignition, after starting? (I was once young).

The old Mopar engineers, admitted many eons ago; that ammeter was stupid way to wire a car. Ditch it.

Herein lies the problem; The high amp stereo is more important than the ignition getting full power. I am kidding, joke here; but I would rather hear how the engine is running ( jetting? timing?) Really, just kidding.

Denso's are good.

Get on older style reg, converted to electronic. About $65

Have it rebuilt by local shop. A one man shop is really good.

New dist, no hei.

Ignition switch; correct, trail.

$5 at local harbor freight; all the same.

It's the switch.

When you nail it, the vacuum drops, putting the vac advance out of the system.

Look; un hook it. Figure what initial timing the engine wants. Period. Then rev it, see what total advance is. Then do into dist, and modify it. Period. The whole time, lowering the idle screw. Those idle mixture screws don;t do crap, until the timing is correct. No ping? good. then hook up...