Alternator suggestions?

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69dodgedart360

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Hey everybody I am looking to change my alternator to something a lot stronger to handle my charging problems. I have a 360 and am running a 72amp alternator out of a later a body and have power steering, 2 electric fans, a stereo system including an amp, and an electric fuel pump. Currently as long as the car is moving along I am getting about 14 volts charging but as soon as I am at idle and the second electric fan kicks on I am barely at 12 volts and the more and more the car idles, it will eventually go to a little under 12 volts. I personally do not like the external voltage regulator but if I could find an externally regulated alternator that would handle the load at idle I would go for it but fear I might have to go with a newer modern internally regulated one. Anyone have a similar experience and found a solution?
Thanks for the help
 
Im running the chrome 100w bought at summit only one fan but it works great.
 
There are lots of options an alternators but before you do ANYTHING read THIS

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

All these old girls are starting to develop wiring problems, actually, connectors and switches, not the wiring per se. The Single biggest problem, or two or three problems that guys are running into is a damaged bulkhead connector, and poor connections at the igntion switch, the headlight switch, and the switches themselves The rusty, corroded fuse panel ain't far behind.

When you add more loads, and more alternator you just make that problem worse.

I recommend

1---The large alternator of your choice

2---Bypass the ammeter and convert a voltmeter. Read this thread:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=119480

Use a nice big wire from the alternator to the battery stud, and don't just leave it at that. Read that MAD article, and inspect, clean, repair, or bypass the bulkhead as need be

3---Consider using a relay box under the hood to further reduce "traffic" through the bulkhead. I used a box out of a junker Voyager van:

image.php


This is a nice piece, and provides relays for ignition/ charging, pump, two for headlights (hi/lo) and spares left over, as well as on board fuses. I did have to rewire it as needed.

Bussmann also makes relay/ fuse boxes that you can "custom build" to suit yourself:

46343FL.gif
 
12 V is fine, but your battery should output at least 12.6 V. It is the battery's job to maintain voltage on the system, the alternator just recharges the battery. How do your fans get power? Next time both fans are on, read the battery voltage right at its terminals. You may be getting a voltage drop in the wiring to the fans. Best if that is dedicated wires right off the battery terminal (via a relay) and not shared with the rest of the car, especially the ignition system. If the battery maintains at least 12.6, go to the cable side of the terminal. You can easily get a drop due to corrosion.
 
By the way, "not liking" the external regulator has NOTHING to do with accuracy of regulating system voltang, and IN FACT the so called 'one wire' systems can potentially be LESS accurate, because they "sense" the regulator set point right at the ouput stud. So if it's charging hard, and has some cable drop IE trunk mount battery with separate charging line, the battery may very well be at some considerably lower voltage than the output stud, which may "correctly" be keeping itself at 14V !!!

There is not a thing wrong with a quality external regulator. I used to run the big frame Mopar alternator (105-130A?) on my 340 powered FJ-40 Landcruiser with a "wench" It would BURY a 100A SW ammeter when trying to keep up with the winch. I used a common 70/ later mopar regulator. IN FACT I recently pulled the poor old dear apart, and that regulator, bad as it looks still works!!! It was used!!! in 1974-5 when I installed it. That thing "wenched" a hell of a lot of Jeeps, Chibbys, Ferds, and others, and pulled a fair amount of firewood. And that alternator hoisted the plow blade MANY times, until I finally converted to power steering lifted hoist.
 
I already did the necessary bypass procedure and am only getting slightly more than 12 volts with both fans running. As soon as i get the rpms up to about 15-1800 the voltage slightly increases to about 13 volts. I do not think there is any wiring issues to be had I think that with my electric fan set up along with everything else that I have this old style alternator just does not have enough charging voltage at idle. I was thinking about possibly doing the Denso Toyota 4runner internally regulated 60amp conversion. Anyone have this type of swap and running plenty of accessories? My main objective is to have at least 13-13.5 volts at idle so i can put a stop to my lights constantly dimming, my fans not blowing the air they should be due to the voltage drop etc.
 
Tekslk, what kind of voltage do you have at idle? Are you running anything else like a electric fuel pump,water pump,sound system?
 
Not trying to save you money or anything, but a smaller pulley on the alternator you have now might achieve your goals.
 
What smaller pulley can i use and where can i get it? Either way, Im still looking at the internally regulated unit because charging at idle is my issue and im afraid if i upgrade to a powermaster 100amp or a tuff stuff It still wont help my charging problem.
 
maybe consider a delta-junction type alternator, delta junction units are better at pushing higher amperage at lower rpms. chryslers 100 amp alternators are of this design. the square and round backs are a Y junction, higher amperage at higher rpms.
 
66durgederp said:
maybe consider a delta-junction type alternator, delta junction units are better at pushing higher amperage at lower rpms. chryslers 100 amp alternators are of this design. the square and round backs are a Y junction, higher amperage at higher rpms.
Click to expand...

According to what I've read, while delta produces more low RPM current, wye wound produces more voltage. Seems to me this is a "which came first, the chicken or the egg" We don't even know for sure which is the problem factor at this point.
 
67Dart273 said:
There are lots of options an alternators but before you do ANYTHING read THIS

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

All these old girls are starting to develop wiring problems, actually, connectors and switches, not the wiring per se. The Single biggest problem, or two or three problems that guys are running into is a damaged bulkhead connector, and poor connections at the igntion switch, the headlight switch, and the switches themselves The rusty, corroded fuse panel ain't far behind.

When you add more loads, and more alternator you just make that problem worse.

I recommend

1---The large alternator of your choice

2---Bypass the ammeter and convert a voltmeter. Read this thread:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=119480

Use a nice big wire from the alternator to the battery stud, and don't just leave it at that. Read that MAD article, and inspect, clean, repair, or bypass the bulkhead as need be

3---Consider using a relay box under the hood to further reduce "traffic" through the bulkhead. I used a box out of a junker Voyager van:

image.php


This is a nice piece, and provides relays for ignition/ charging, pump, two for headlights (hi/lo) and spares left over, as well as on board fuses. I did have to rewire it as needed.

Bussmann also makes relay/ fuse boxes that you can "custom build" to suit yourself:

46343FL.gif
Click to expand...
Yep.....Power Distribution boxes from Fords work well also. Have used them in the past and was able to find all the terminals for it so I did not have to splice wires together.....
 
Went to the junkyard and pulled an alternator out of a 87 Toyota Pickup, got some wire and hooked it up. 13.8 volts at idle with lights on,fans on, and Metallica playing on the stereo. Denso swap FTW. Thank you for all the help, suggestions, and advice everyone.
 
I recommend a gm CS130. Its a 3 wire, remote sense unit that puts out killer voltage at idle. The mounting points are close enough to use in most mopar applications with a little creativity. If a truly "bolt in" alt is what youre looking for, you cant go wrong with a nintendo DS120. it uses the stock external regulator and the same mounts as the old chrysler units. Be forwarned, the denso units are longer than chry co units, and may not fit on some applications. Thats the main reason i went with the gm unit. Its very short and compact.
 
Herein lies the problem; The high amp stereo is more important than the ignition getting full power. I am kidding, joke here; but I would rather hear how the engine is running ( jetting? timing?) Really, just kidding.
 
mopardude318 said:
These are a nice alternator..you can get them however you want and nearly any amperage...1 wire, 2 wire, 3 wire...internal regulator, or external regulator....they make whatever you want...expensive though...

http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=557
Click to expand...

Yup, I need a pretty big one for my set up. This is where I will get it. The calculator says total amps required for mine is 228. I know everything will not be on at the same time so I guess I will get the 200 or 250 amp model.
 
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