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The bottom gear slides off, no puller; that is almost timed to #6, But a Cloyes set.

yeah, and richen it.

I would really like to hear the reasoning that the chain is stretched. This gut must be a genius.geru. He can hear or has xray vieion to know this.

Initial- what it wants for highest vac on the unported port. then adjust idle vacuum- later full mech- total 36 or lower, adjust dist; to have initial minus full 36 vac; plug up to ported and play. don't be surprised to see a total of 45 to 50. normal.

The rad puts out 16 lbs. the trans, where fluid coming from rad, is lower pressure, until it gets to pumps, which increase pressure. 2 changes of fluid; first one, then 1 a week later. (hopefully, the moisture will boil out, up the dip, or out the front pump vent.And if it is not water, just...

Morning=choke. Later, could be vapor lock. Kinda need a temp pressure gauge on the cowl to look at, when it burbles.

Can you find a way to get your fonts any smaller?

Put a mech gauge, $15 from local store on it; tell us the pressure, this is already becoming an oil thread, where nobody wins. Get it guys?

Bouch is great.

A thrust bearing on an auto; rubbing head hard on that. Pilot bushing for a manual. Thrust bearing for an auto? The convertor snout won't fit in the crank.

Valve covers. Pan and timing is a problem area, you can try cleaning it and smearing some Permatex Right stuff on, but that just slows it down. For pan, another 1/4 turn may help. Valve; new gaskets.

Idle too high, due to timing. play with timing at lower idle, untl good. Then adjust carb. then check timing advance.

I just went 3/8 2 wire rubber; moved everything away from the heat.

never mind

Idle too high, advance has nothing to do with it. Re -tarded can. adjust the carb. To idle at 750 or less.

Yes, move the fingers further out from the rovker shaft, and weld them higher, compared to where they are now, on rocker shaft. I sometimes have a hard time explaining, I'm used to pointing at things.

It's coming back to my old senile brain. Couldn't get the keepers out; not enough travel. So moved fingers forward, longer handle. Those springs have some pressure. To the young guns reading this; using air, piston needs to be TDC. You can't just put it there, the air will move it. You have to...

Get the fingers further out(longer), so they press on the center of the retainer,not next to the shaft. Raise them higher, compared to the shaft. And I rounded off the bottom of the fingers, took me 4 tries to get it right. Wish I had pics, but sold it. Hard to explain without pics.

I made one of those, to work; longer fingers, and raise the fingers from the shaft, come down on the center. Now, had to put air in the cylinder too.

Yeah, I bought one from summit or jeg's, $69 , but a nice piece.

Ever installed new braided, and hook up a temporary glass filter? The crap that comes out; Takes 700 miles to clean it up.

Oil is oil, is oil ,is oil. Straight weight? Wonder why engine builders like it. Wonder why it is recommended for inboard-outboards. Wonder why your lawnmower wants it. It may be thicker, but it also doesn't run off of the bearing surfaces at shut-down.

If my old butt remembers correctly, there is a trick to get the stamped rockers up to spec. Old timers disease, maybe diff lash caps? No , think it is a shim,

How can you drive with the switch in acc?

67dart; when are you going to stop giving answers about things you don't seem to know about?

Different.

It depends on if it it a light or an electrical gauge in the dash.

Make sure it is'nt the carb, before going there.

Floor the gas, adjust to trans lever all the way back. Then fine tune.

Before installing, converter lugs 1/2" behind bellhouse face. them converter need to slide forward 1/8" .If that went good, then put shifter in park, loosen rod, and feel trans lever for in park, adjust. then, at full throttle, check for trans lever to be all the way back.