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My combo works great, and since a lot of people have issues, i thought i should post it. 408 stroker with a 235/249/107 comp Thumper cam, airgap intake, 1 5/8 stepped TTis, Mopar vacum advance dist with 14 initial and 30 total with EQ heads, 504 hp, 3.55 gears, auto with a tight ten inch...

The thread on the home built rack is about ten threads back on this forum. Thanks, also. I started that project way back in 2013 to allow room for exhaust on a gen 3 hemi. I got side tracked and started a 5.9 Magnum build, so no hemi. Guess I am just old school and like carbs and stuff.

Title says most of it. Five years ago I started a coil over + rack and pinion front end project. Finally got the car on the road! 408, 504 hp, 904 trans. 3.55 gears.

Update! Finally!! Got the new 408 in the 65 Dart post car, rack and pinion coil over combo is installed and working great! The 408 has about 470 hp in the car, dyno'd 504 hp but no fresh air in the car. Car has about 3600 stall, 3.55 gears. Definately impressed my buddy on the maiden voyage...

Thanks guys, got some good idea's

The converter is a ten inch, fairly tight for cruising. I may run the car a few times, but it won't do laps, by any means. It might get a better test of cooling just limping along in a parade, I would think. The car will mainly be a cruiser, go to shows, jump on it on occasion. The main thing...

I have a 408 with a 904 trans, and need some help on picking out a very good cooler as well as help in how to run the lines around the headers. I want a stacked plate design, and i am looking at a Derale 16 row, or 25 row cooler. They come with an6 fittings, the 25 row is rated 45,000! Btu. I...

Sportsman class so i would have to permanently limit throttle opening. My converter will be somewhat tight (3500?) So maybe serious short shifting will do it.

BIT, i am more interested in a cold air inlet than the little gained from an above the boundary layer scoop that gets a small boost in power at speed. Looks are more important to me, since. I want to run a 12.0 bracket class, and dynoed at 504 crank hp. It isn't going to be easy to kill et and...

I'm hoping to find one that is low, or lower than a standard 6pak for primarily street driving.

65dc, I have that exact scoop on my original race car steel hood!

I am looking for a hood scoop for my 65, paint on this car is almost perfect so i am looking for somthing i can color match. I have a mold for a 65 hood, so i have options to go glass rather than mess up my good hood.

In 1977 i took in trade a set of Hooker 1 7/8 fenderwell race headers. From a friend that had them on his 1970 AAR cuda.with slip fit primary extensions for tuning. I didn't know if they would fit the 65 Dart with 340 i had, but they did! As i remember, i only had to cut the usual area for the...

Interested in making a 2door hardtop out of your 65? I have a great 65 body, It has glass, doors, trunk lid, and hood. Dash is there, so what you really need is a front clip, rear valance,and interior, some front suspension stuff, interior and rear valance.

Wilwood kits, one on a 3000 lb 65 Dart drag car, stops great from 153 mph, no chute needed! The other set on a street 65 dart, manual 7/8 mc, Ford Explorer 8.8 with Ford rear disc brakes, works well.

An 8.8 from a 2000 model year Explorer or similar can be found with 3.55 posi, and disc brakes standard. This rear will fit a 65 Dart with moved spring perches and newer Mustang (2005 on up) wheels. I have moved the springs in on my 65, have 255x45x18 tires on polished five spoke Mustang rims...

Rebuild the stock suspension, equip it with shocks,torsion bars and a sway bar matched to your tastes, add Street type Wilwood disc brakes, and you will be happy and can have a 4.5 bolt circle to boot!

Camber increases dramatically when the suspension is free to go all the way down like it is when the car is off the ground. Jack up those lower control arms (back torsion bars off completely first!) Till they hit the bump stop on the lower control arm. Now lower them about two inches at the...

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When you said limited budget, that to me says use a small block. Write down all the stuff you need for the big block, then compare it to what you can do with a motor you already have, or a bone yard Magnum motor. Off the top of my head I remember the radiator may be different, not to mention...

I have done this, and some choices will make it easier than others. First, the low deck 400 block is the only way to go because it will handle 150 to 200 more hp before it breaks, at about the 850 level after some use. Go with heads that have a stock port location on the exhaust to help with...

What I have is a 65 Dart with no torsion bars, (went to coilovers) a rack and pinion, and a modified steering column cut back to the firewall, with multiple joints so it can be routed differently to the steering rack. So I have room around the steering shaft where stock early A's don't. Will a...

Your plan could work with a rear axle move, stock motor location, and what ever light parts it takes to get the weight under 55 percent front if you are going to run 9.0 or quicker. At 8.80s I need a trans brake to hit the tires hard enough for a decent launch at 53 percent front. I had it at...

If it were mine it would get the firewall moved back along with the motor, then move the rear axle forward six inches because with a six inch move it looks factory. My race dart has the rear moved and the engine set back about 17 inches. That motor is HEAVY and the stock wheelbase puts WAY too...

It sounds like this is a strip only car? Street strip? You could just run without the front bumper like mine does. Also, there is a trunk lid available, but the one I got cost a fortune when adding in shipping and buying glass matt and resin to add hinge brackets. There is a weight reduction...

The weight savings can come from all disc brakes, using aftermarket aluminum kits with street rotors for at least the front. The stock hood is HEAVY. Glass is hard to find, but would be worth the trouble if you can find a good one. You can ditch the crossing hood springs and adapt piston rods to...

Tin cup used a 67 Camaro bumper, cut and rewelded to the right width. Make some aluminum bumper brackets and it ought to be worth some weight savings. Looks really great too! Search his posts,,,,,,,,,,,,

The trans tunnel most likely will only need the center seem flattened to clear the 727. That's all I needed to do. Not sure on the pan, I used a race pan with a tube through it for the drag link. Headers will need to be fenderwell. You can cut out the firewall area behind the front wheels and...

Don't try and run any of them without rebuilding ALL of them. It isn't worth the risk. Better yet, check into the cams you want to run, and be sure the roller diameter and cam profile are meant for each other. The best course of action though in my opinion is buy new ones. The valve train is...