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What's the BFD? It's a '67 Chrysler. VIN numbers weren't stamped on engines and transmissions by Chrysler until '68 or '69 anyway. If you had a '67 that had been stashed away off the car hauler with 1.3 miles on it you couldn't prove it had the original engine in it...

Make sure the black bellhousing in the picture is bolted on instead of being cast integrally with the block. If it is not a bolt on, no way is it a 392 since the integral bellhousing disappeared for 1954 and pre '54 the best you could hope for is a 331, which is not necessarily a bad thing. Also...

Indy has a 4.5" bore low deck available here http://www.indyheads.com/blocks.html I'ts aluminum, uses siamese dry sleeves, and weighs 133 pounds. They also have a 4.25" stroke rotating assembly for it. Instead of 340, your rear call outs could say 540. Just think of the non believers you could...

Rear end in the van could be either a 9 1/4" or 8 3/4". It's worth looking under the old girl's skirts...

'Bout all I can add is pretty basic. With a 440 in an A body, you have to pull the heater blower motor to remove the passenger side valve cover. With the 383 you don't. Having owned both, ('68 383 Dart, '69 440 Dart) I preferred the 383. It was much easier to do plug changes etc. than the 440...

May need to shorten the linkage cross shaft, but it should work. I know a column shift C body trans will replace the trans in a console auto car with zero hassles. Grab the 8 3/4" rear too.

Hard starting beast. I think the "bad rod ratio theory" got started so we wouldn't stroke 383s and make sure the "Other Guys" could stay within tail pipe sniffing distance. That is SWEEEET!!!! Think it would fit in a '66 Valiant?

If it was on a 361 then it would be for a B engine. It would fit a 350, 361, 383, or 400. A picture would tell more about it.

And don't forget the single digit fuel mileage, because you CAN'T keep your foot out of it..... :burnout:

3 mice and a pair of hamsters will beat a rat any day of the week.

You can use the motorhome tranny if you swap on a car tailshaft housing and output shaft. There is no such thing as cheap headers for a big block A body. Your best bet is '65-'66 C body exhaust manifolds and you will need the same car's oil pan.

Which engine?

Had a '68 383 Dart, a '69 440 Dart, and a '68 Hemi Dart. The Hemi was the bee's knees in a straight line which was just fine. It may have handled better with sway bars, decent front tires instead of the little drag race skinnies, street shocks, and a differential instead of a spool. The '69 was...

www.lasleeve.com is all you need to know. If they don't have it in stock they can make it for you. Great people to work with too.

With power steering the only one I could find was made by Schumacher, and they need to be modified to use with a 4 speed.

383s never had a cast crank. The only B engine with a cast crank was the 400. I know there were some 440 cast cranks ('74 on) but they are RB engines.

Their website says power steering is OK but says nothing about power brakes. You may have to lose the booster since having one will make it almost impossible to remove the valve cover. If you run hydraulic lifters and non adjustable valve gear that will render the problem moot.

Big blocks came in 2 flavors, B and RB. The B engines used a 3.38" stroke, had their own main journal size and rod length. The RBs used a 3.75" stroke, had larger main journals and longer rods. They also had a 1" taller deck to accomodate the longer rods and increased stroke. The B engines were...

From experience there is nothing like a 440 A body (M code '69 Dart) for right foot giggle factor. Having said that, the only way I would have another one would be with an aluminum block. They are nose heavy pigs with cast iron blocks and to get enough spring rate to make them turn they ride...

You can go nuts and spend a bunch of money looking for the correct big block stuff or you can call Bouchillon Performance and get their cable kickdown and throttle kit. You might want to see what Lokar has as well.