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I may be out of place here but im gonna give my imput on what I belive she is looking for, This isnt edelbrock... paying for motors,race fees,gas and entry haha,Its a small family company trying to work with the "little guy" like me and everyone here, If you want some great powdercoating work...

oooooh ok now I get the tire man thing haha,. anyway, Yah guys/gals!!! cmon! Its not everyday any vendor/company large or small that up and offers.... the grassroots racers like us all an oppertunity of a relationship of a sponsor. Large or small its great, I got simple things as far as lug nuts...

Woop Woop thats rite, I never would have though that in a million years I would get into a big race like pinks and on top of that get sponsors!!!! During the very very quick build process before the race when phoenixspecialtycoatings approched me with an offer to help with the car. A arm...

Theres a supercharged chevy silverado in town,shortbed single cab... very fast for a little street truck, and I have caught him twice, once at the gas station light to light and I blew him away in my dart, second time was on the freeway he remembered me few weeks later and he started messing...

Welll being in the same boat... broke and young haha I get what your saying. Going faster is pretty simple.. more power to the car or less car to the power... So cheapest way is drop everything you dont need or care about. Its cheaper to throw stuff off then add it on. Heater,ac,spare tire, all...

yah i agreee w/braket racing, I wanted to do the superstock thing. Thats were I got into because you just cant outrun monnnney. Bracket racing kinda levels the playing field for me... no more running against crazy 60k cars built buy some retired guy spending his savings haha. And all and all its...

yah seems that crane golds no longer are made for 440's By cheap im saying not 7-900$$ haa i think average set is about 4-500 now which is only a 100 more then they used to be like cranes... i think ill look into either hughes or the comps

ok i am looking at getting a set of roller rockers but looking at distributers and there seems to be less options now for 440. looks like crane cams stoped selling the (golds) for 440? whats out there in the affordable range?

Good to hear your not letting everything get you down. My mother was just diagnosed not too long ago and we have been raisin money and helping others with the same problems. Its a tough to watch someone go through it and cant imagine being the one going through it but its nice seeing your...

i would like a set for my 69 front fiber bumper.... And some other stuff could be useful... radio delete/heater delete plates...a100 van ss brackets, front headlight deletes for the more serious cars,mirror delete plates,heater box delete plates, Lots of useful stuff for aluminum race parts. But...

All good points, i know i have more in my current set-up. I am weighing the two options... keep current crank rods or not. The car went slower last time due to timing and carb... the 750 isnt quite enough anymore so im going 850dp and more cam + solid anyway... which means springs and so on. All...

not to get off topic of the shortblock build but,well the main thing is after my last race of actually going slower after I put a few mods on including alum heads and stuff. After that i said im either stroking it...or puting a blower on it haha. And now that im going to freshen it up i figure...

yah im kinda torn... i can either buy the re-ring/bearing and piston kit freeze plugs... and so on for about $ 770 + machine shop cost... and have it balenced and so on... so i would be talking around 1500 on the high end for a shortblock... balenced and bored and assembled... or another 1000...

yah i just cant see it costing too too much... My machine cost was about $300 for cleaning and boring,checking /balencing./ Then cost of of the 440 stroker kit.. everything included was 1900 So short block would run about 2200.. PLus later mods i will do down the road.... meaning carb..and so on.

yah just to re-touch on it... money is few and far between... besides the re-build,machine shop cost, future cam,bigger carb,possible torque converter & gears,and the rest of the cars needs....interior...and some other stuff. So what im working on now is a solid street/strip short block....on...

Well ok.. Basically the rest of my set up is ok.. to me at least. about 2800 converter... 3.91 gears And the heads have had a valve job and better locks and retainers installed. I figured that since my bearing/rings/seals need to be replaced anyways since the motor has never been torn apart...

yah my thing is i dont want to have to kill the motor to run 12 second 1/4 times and it needs to get new pistons...rings...bearings and get machined anyway... since ill be getting my tax return around the time the motor gets done i figure stroke it to 512 for big easy power and then maby later...

yah and now for the next few ????'s Have it balenced by them or no? seeing how they balence nothing but there kits all day i seem to tthink they have it down... but a few people on other boards said they can be fairly far out of spec.... next is brand? i was thinking 440 source... primarily due...

well yah i dont know much on strokers but heres what i saw. Putting it in the calculator the 512 crank is 4.25 stroke. & std, bore is 4.32 and that gives a tad under 500 ci.... even with 30 over it gives you 505.. so why would they advertise it as a 512 kit?

ok guys, i have been sqweezing what i can out of my 440 dart. more or less its a 68hp motor highish compression, alum heads, ,509 purple cam,stock bottem end....750 holley carb/intake/ so on.... Compression dropped a little but is still stock bore and pistons so its probly just worn... Before my...

well rite now its a 750 dual feed. not dp And i was told it was a 800dp i was getting but when he gave it to me it was a 750 dominator.... so i think im gonna get 750-850 dp... and dial that in.

opinions???? im running a regular dual feed 750 now.. but im going to go a little more compression on the motor, new pistons, 30 over and a 550 or so solid cam to get it all bumped up a little, is this carb too big? Its overall a pretty mild build, street/strip 440 .30 over 10.5-1 compression...

yah it was a number of things for me... parts not all matching up completly.. timing.... carb cutting out from bad fuel... almost every worst case scenario. but we race in bakersfield only really were its almost always over 100 trackside and sometimes 120 on the track so i need to dial the car...

ok well i got my kit today... ima try puting in the big black advance bushing and then re-time it all in with my new tach installed too haha, now ill see if i can get it all stragithened out.

yah i have tried both ways.. havnt had a whole bunch difference either way. but i figure with my needing to improve 60 ft times working on how i leave the line is important too... just curious how everyone else was doing it.

hey guys just curious, how do the footbrake guys here leave the line? do you guys just wait for the lights and then mash on the gas or do you guys rev it up with the foot on the brake until its almost spinning tire and then wait for the lights and let off brake and mash gas?? just curious

ok well i figured out the distributer.... this is about 6-7 years old.. so most msd tech guys i talked to (about 7) had no idea what was wrong... its old technology. instead of a threaded bolt and nut to hold the bushing into place they used to use a stud and a c-clip to hold it on.. i had to...

no im not worried about all that, I think almost all distributers do have the shaft and bushing but this set-up since its the older discontinued model i think the weights themself hitting the plastic center peice is the max... instead of an adjustable bushing. But i called the original owner and...

ok guys well i found my timing problems also.... The reason i couldnt find the timing bushing/stud is because there is none... It either was removed on purpose....for some odd reason, or was broke offf somehow, i cant ask the previous owner anymore so i guess its time for a new one? you need...

well what did the timing numbers look like to you guys? Initial was around 24 and total was around 35 Now i took it to 30 initial and 38 total and it seems to sound a little better and starts fine. The other numbers i posted were wrong. But the problem was when the car was at low idle to get...