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Test msd I use a paperclip to connect both sides of the lead to distributor. Purple wire to green or something like that. Pull paperclip and POW you gotta spark.

Well I haven't done this with a ignition like yours. But I have with my msd setup. Basically the same,interrupt power to the coil to create a spark. Result is a spark you can see and hear. From the coil wire to ground. Only hearing it from under the distributor,that's not right at all. Try it...

Yeah,the back is full time vacuum source. Good for power brakes. That other one is ported,does not have vacuum at idle. Off idle,cruise and so forth has vacuum. Floor it,and no vacuum. Good for vacuum advance. Awhile back I helped a guy with a small block chevy in a blazer.would not idle in gear...

The bog might be carb related. Where is the vacuum hooked up to?

What's voltage at starter relay while cranking?

With vacuum advance total timing can be 50°. What distributor did you get? 5-10° is a safe starting point.

Well,how's it running?

Indicated timing as shown by the light would at idle read let's say 10°. As timing advances the light moves away from zero. Now that's a standard light,correct? A dial back light I have never used. Before you buy another light compare with a borrowed one. Yours is probably working just fine. I...

Probably an initial setting of about 10°. Thats a guesstimate. Wont be 0.

You can lose spark because of carbon tracking. Look for lines,very light pencil lines. Look for them in direct sunlight. Or,run it in the darkest place you can. And look for arcing.

Dont get discouraged. Your not pulling the front of the motor. Thats a good thing.

Set your timing. Rev the motor and see if it advances properly. And goes back when it returns to idle. Tighten down distributor. Your problem is elsewhere.

Your ignition box,all it is is a switch. It fires the coil when told to. It works or it doesnt. If it is messing up (works sometimes,goes away then runs fine etc.)that would be a wiring issue. Bad ground is the most common problem. Doesnt change the timing.

You know your distributor might have slipped. Retarding your timing. You did put a timing light on it,right? Just checking....

Don't worry bout that. It's fine. Cylinder 6 is one complete turn from cylinder 1. You got 5 because going backwards you hit the stop tool before you got to 6.

Constant volts in start circuit with key off,yet won't start on start. Sounds backwards don't it. Sounds like crossed wires... Gotta think on this...

12 hour days. That's rough. Kudos for working on the car at all.

When you cleaned up the bulkhead connections did you clean up and inspect the wire and terminal on both sides of the bulkhead? That's one way for a connect to be cleaned and reinserted and get a worse connect if the interior side is mucked up. A real pain to get at but corrosion doesn't care...

Oh yeah. Gotta excuse the others. It is Friday night...lol.

Start side of ballast supplies full volts to coil when cranking engine. That wire can go direct to positive coil but hooks into wire to coil at ballast resistor. This is ignition side of ballast. Other side of ballast is supplied full volts from key. This is run position. Then it is knocked down...

Key off should be no volts at the ballast.

Thanks for the lesson. Always a little room left in the brain to learn something. My resource is the DC engine books. Factory race engineers. Yeah all my stuff is highly modified. One outa four has a key. Might drop a mag in or who knows? I'll look that up in my FSM. Thanks.

Hmmm,if ya say so. But my resources clearly show a wire from starter relay to positive side of coil via ballast resistor. Wired my junk this way forever and no problems. How can power in the load circuit of a relay possibly energize said relay?

And that brown wire originates,,,,,at the starter relay. Goes hot as relay is energized.

And that brown wire originates,,,,,at the starter relay. Goes hot as relay is energized.

The one your missing goes from starter relay,marked ign,to msd red wire also.

Discard any wires from the ballast to coil.

The wires that ran to the ballast resistor,tie them together with the small red msd wire. Thats it.

Its never a bad idea to take the part your looking to replace with you to an auto parts store. and that goes for spark plugs too. and bring your old parts back from the store cause you never know how it might go. plug wires,dont get the cheapies or the most expensive. and think carefully if...

I'am just gonna say,theres a reason hei modules need to be mounted on a heat sink,(piece of aluminium or such). They have built in'ballast resistors'.