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I'm with toolmanmike. There are primary and secondary brake shoes and the short shoes is always in the front. If you put them on backwards some times they have to be over adjusted too tight just to stop.

Use everything for the disc brake setup. It just sucks you leave your completely restored car parked in a bad spot for 15 mins and look what happens

Replace both brake hoses, They fail a lot. If we have to replace calipers we replace the hoses at the same time it saves on the come backs.

I used a SSBC on my 65 Dart. The brackets I used on the rear axle were some brackets I cut off for the front brake lines of an F-Body they rapped around axle housing without much of a problem and I tack welded them to the axle housing so that caliper could be removed without having to disconnect...

I used the later model 73-76 a-body stuff and just flipped the mounting bracket from left to right so the caliper mounted on the back of the rotor and I could still run the factory sway bar. I did have to bend the metal part of the brake hose a little to clear but it was no big deal and...

Yes just move the push rod to the other side of the brake pedal and cut the push rod in half add a spacer that is the thickness of the spacer you use and I used a piece of DOM tubing as a sleeve over the ends of the push rod and the spacer and welded it together. You will never have to worry...

There is a vacuum hose from the engine to a tee fitting one side goes to the booster and there is a check valve in the booster it self and the other side goes to the canister. I hope this helps

Yea It was suppose to be a cruiser we will have to see, 375ci, 4 speed, 3:55 rear p/s 4 wheel disc brakes and a/c, power window and locks and it's going to be a two door wagon

Here are some pictures my car had little dimples in the inner fender and I found them using the original inner fender from the parts car I had

I WILL TAKE SOME PICTURES TONIGHT WHEN I GET HOME IN ABOUT AN HOUR OR SO AND POST THEM IN THE AM FOR YOU

I used 68-69 B-Body wagon rear brakes on my car they are 11"x3". The backing plates came from Year One and everything else came from my local warehouse shoes, wheel cylinders, drums, hardware kit and self adjuster kits.

If your adding a line lock I would suggest adding it after the proportioning valve and that will keep the proportioning valve from moving and the brake light in the dash from coming one. If it before the proportioning valve brake pedal will feel funny the next time you hit the brakes like on top...

I think the only way you could put big bolt pattern drum brakes on the front would be if you could use early B-body front spindles and drum brakes set up off a Road Runner or Charger. Just a thought

I agree with the masses 10" is to low how about an electric vacuum pump like the on SSBC sells it would be cheaper and easier than a cam swap and if you like the way the car runs and it's just a matter of the hard brake pedal it may be the way to go