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I"ll give it a thumbs down. I've run the BBD like you have and the one pictured for many, many miles. Both will work but, I prefer the earlier version. Take the carb you have, clean it and put a kit in it. If you decide to chunk that BBD, send it to me.

Have you driven the vehicle, yet? Does it accelerate o.k.? Have you physically verified the ignition timing with a TDC tool?

Just so you know you aren't being ignored, I'm reviewing your post and will post if I think of something solid, not throwing parts at it. There are far more knowledgeable folks on this forum and I think they'll stop by soon.

I have had excellent results with aluminum repair with something called "Devcon". The can is at work, so I can't give anymore details. In dry applications, I've never had the stuff crack or lift off. Put it on like Bondo and file it smooth. Don't know how it would do with fuel. If the holes are...

Been many years since I tried to seal with JB Weld on aluminum. Might just be me but, I had bad results. I wonder why no one wants to weld repair? Do you know what series aluminum the tank is made of?

I had mine refurbished by Tri-Starr. Might have been Tri-star radiator. They're on the internet. Can't find my receipt for an address. Did a real nice job, replaced float with a nice used one. Cost was $150.00 . Chinese reproduction was $110. I avoid the chinese if possible.

I would use a steel semi-tubular rivet. Part number MS16535-xx . The xx is the grip length or clench depth. Does require a special setting tool but, they are cheap and can be found on ebay, as well as the rivets.