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Dadsbee is correct. The caliper pistons only move a few thousands of an inch.The extra volume is for pad wear and you'll probably never need it unless it's a daily driven for a few years. The boot is a nice touch, i'd use it. I have drilled and tapped a master for that very reason. It only takes...

yup 4spd is correct. The seal is the rubber in the groove and piston. Bores are not as critical.When operated the piston rolls the rubber to provide a seal and piston retraction.The pistons only move a few thou.

Tx...Got my rotors from 2 different sources, one of my new ones has that bezel at the top and one doesn't. maybe only one of mine will interfere? I do have a friend with a brake lathe so i'll sort it out. Thanks for everyones input!

As are my 6" measuring calipers. I went back and re-read all the posts and it seems the newer fully machined rotors do not rub the caliper boots. Were your new rotors that rubbed on the hats "as cast" or machined?

i do have 6" vernier calipers and never thought of measuring from the top. Anyway my rotors are 5.96" at the top and BJ's are 5.942" so i'm close? My caliper jaws are not deep enough or wide enough to measure the hat at the bottom.

Great..i'll look into it!

yup, guilty as charged. I just meant the hat / hub section on the rotor...not the separate hub. i don't have anything accurate enough to measure 6.596 or 5.942 or whatever? for what it's worth it's ir3333. ir ....i'm retired!

Glad this popped up again. ...has anybody had caliper boot interference with new rotors that come with the hubs and hats machined? I dug mine out and they are completely machined.

I too have new rotors on the shelf... Has anyone measured their hub on those that Don't rub?

stock '76 discs in good repair will be hard to improve on. Maybe your brakes need some attention?

Just a heads up...Rock Auto have rotors in stock, calipers as well.

I use graphite on my manifolds but never tried it on brake drums. I was wondering if rpm would stand the heat of brake parts

Has anyone tried RPM on brake drums or Calipers?

there is a master cylinder listed on kijiji in Ontario. #2225541. Guy is asking $30.00

there're many master cylinders that will work depending on how you like your brakes to feel. ...are you restoring your car to original specs?

I think 73 and 74 E bodies also used them along with some later Cordoba and similar sedans. Get the 2 3/4"piston callipers for more squeeze.Standard was 2 5/8" which still works OK

I think some may find the 1 1/8" master is not a good choice for manual brakes and very hard to stop. Most prefer 15/16" or 1" which will provide good braking with much less leg.

I don't know, i like working on the car and enjoy restoring parts. Always bent my own lines. It's not difficult and doing this stuff yourself is gratifying...but not everybody likes doing that kind of thing. Maybe i'm weird. As for the brake fluid i've always just used DOT 3

It can be difficult.Here is an easy way. replace the piston in your master and then bolt the master back on your fire wall separated with a 1/2" or 5/8" piece of wood between it and the firewall. Now reconnect your pedal and pull it back hard. It should pop out!

yes

separate the rod from the piston..it's captured by a rubber sleeve which you will need for the new master

I think that will have a 1 1/32" bore and will take a bit of leg to lock em up. Get a 15/16" or 7/8" master and you'll probably be much happier. Also seating your pads...haul it down reasonably hard from 50 to 30 about 3 times and then 30 to to zero 3 times...they should grab a little better...

late to the party but money is on the wrong master. Betting someone installed a 1 3/32" or 1 1/8" Find a 1" or 15/16" and you'll be happy

Mopar stock large bolt or small bolt systems in new or good repair are great choices. ...but you didn't want to hear that.

just go to your auto store and buy straight sections the correct length and bend them yourself. I think i used about a 2" pipe for coil and radius sections.

as Rusty says..or buy your local auto parts pre flared straight lines the correct length and then bend them yourself. The front passenger side can be tricky.

finger tight and back off to the first cotter hole. 55 lbs is probably spindle to lower ball joint?

re read post #16.. Your kit may have come with the correct master

OK..better info. Pedal to the floor is probably air in the system.

i'm guessing you need a master cylinder with 15/16" or 7/8" pistons if everything else is installed correctly.