Search results for query: *

I bought a rebuilt 340 that had an airgap on it. Quickly swapped it out for a $50 used Weiand dual plane that was taking up space. The Weiand ran perfect and the airgap sold immediately at a nice profit. I doubt if there was any performance difference and the Weiand looked better and was a...

did you ever give us the timing curve...maybe i missed it. But i know when my engine detonating i can tell even before it's audible because the car is noticably held back. But surely the dyno operator would have picked up on it. My car runs terrible unless i use 94 octane!

really this is like going to a doctor and saying i've got a pain? So many things need to be checked and it has been pointed out the dyno looks like it's running out of fuel. Cam lobes or worn out valve springs but who knows. Also suggested was dyno performance may be suspect. You have your work...

Once again...if you do indeed have a cam with those numbers it is an excellent choice for a 14 inch tire street driven 340, should produce better numbers and pull hard to well past highway speeds. Maybe the cam sent was not the cam you ordered? Your build makes good sense. I might even suspect...

Stock 340 was .429, .444 w /.210 and .220 duration and produced about 275 hp and 340 lb. ft. You are pretty close to stock but there is something not quite right...you should be up about another 45. I don't think the problem is cam selection. Give us the dyno details and compression height...

I don't think you could see that on an average of 4 cylinders? I jetted mine to read an average of 15 - 15.5 A/F while cruising an my car ran great..no bog or hesitation at all. It is a stock build with a small cam. Because the reading is an average of 4 cylinders my thought was that i could...

They read averages and i think it's a few hundred readings per minute but i'm not sure. The better ones read all 5 gases and when used on modern engines they can record and provide many tuning options and curves. I have twice been saved by mine which exhibited a flooded condition once and a fuel...

i've had mine so long i forget who made it but i just keep transferring it to each new build. An excellent tool for tuning with no guesswork!

I've never had heat percolation Steve...if you do it might be because your timing is too retarded and their is too much fire in your heads and exhaust instead of the cylinders? See if your headers are red in the dark.

Make sure you grab a couple of unions and the passenger side front brake line can be a challenge. I'm lucky, i like doing' stuff like that. GL

well...if you have the time buy straight sections from your local auto parts store and bend them yourself for an exact fit.Regular brake lines will never corrode and look more correct but that's a personal taste.

Is your Mopar Performance distributor the Mallory built unit?

you can google the carb manual on the internet and buy individual metering rods and jets and using the tables go one or two steps leaner economically, but best would be to install an oxygen sensor and A/F meter for accurate results.I have done that and once tuned you can use it on many vehicles...

the Edelbrock 750 has been giving some hot rodders fits for many years. I had tuning problems with the carb years ago and at that time there were many posts about the various problems with idle, hesitation, rich and inconsistent A/F mixers at different rpm. I talked at length with an Edelbrock...

You'll be happy with the 600 as well.

i'm going to save you weeks of frustration. Sell the Edelbrock 750...bolt on an Edelbrock 650 Thunder and have fun!

as suggested a vacuum leak or tuning..... or going through your carburetor setting the floats and cleaning everything including filters

at 10.5 : 1 your engine shouldn't need that much initial. 15 max maybe to run nice. Who would recommend not to run vacuum advance? Long duration cams can be difficult.

save yourself $500 plus and use the carb you have, it's perfect!

650 for sure on the street!

to answer your question as motorpirate says, the Edelbrock 600 would be perfect!

If the demand is the only thing that matters a 1000 cfm would be perfect for every vehicle under 500 hp...even a slant six! Carburetor design and operation are more important than size.

i talked at length with Edelbrock tech. and they assured me the 650 Thunder is by no means a small carb.The carbs' design and operation are more important than it's cfm rating. I don't think the op is racing through the big end at 6500 plus rpm.

if it's the 650 Thunder it's a Hell of a carb...it would be my choice and should pull hard on the street!

Well....we need to know your engine specs and how you are using your car? If it's a warm 360 and you only drive it on the street it's pretty hard to beat 600 Edelbrock!

...and i know of a couple of '68 383 RR's with those small stock carburetors that chased 140 mph with 3.23 gears back in the day. 600/625 cfm should be plenty as well as efficient.

Thanks guys...i have a 600 Eddy and a 650 Eddy Thunder. Will try them both on a fresh 372.

tx..

What was the stock cfm of the 383 Dart carburetor? or the 383 RR and Superbee?

An H pipe reduces and softens the exhaust sound.This allowed the use of less restrictive mufflers for their performance models especially the big blocks.