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532 lift cam and x heads 350/360

These guys a paid by the manufacturers whose parts they advertise. Here's Comp's own honest dyno of a 9.0:1 350 with good Dart heads, the XE268 and headers. Have a look!

so it would be reasonable for an engine to dyno 390hp but in a driving car it might be around 340 at the crank?

Watched a Dulcich / Friedberger video last night. They ran a warm 350 on the dyno with no fan and then added a fan. Total hp dropped 30 hp with a fan. That's quite a bit. What would the total losses be if you add air cleaner, alternator, fuel pump and full exhaust?

Just a bit..lol

As for mileage,..you guys are lucky.We hit $7.00 plus a gallon at times. At 10 mpg it can cost $70.00 just to go to cruz nite 35 miles away. That's $300 a week if you go 4 times and we have at least one every night somewhere!

5.7 swap looks to be an excellent upgrade in every area. Tx guys!

tx 408. Great info! now will a 2008 5.7 in an A body with 3.55's turn a 13.5 sec quarter mile and get 20 mpg? i've never had magnumitis and have always been happy with stock 340's which are probably 14.8 in the quarter give or take with a decent tune.

All good info guys tx..but wondering about the mileage and performance for a stock style early (2003 2008) swap..nothing exotic. i'e no cam or head changes, modest suspension upgrades..read lo buck. 20 mpg? 13 second quarter mile?

Just curious about the potential of using a 5.7 hemi...used 5.7's are becoming plentiful performance, mileage and dependability???

Those numbers look realistic. Too many guys get stuck on hp numbers. The 340's wide piston, short stroke and good flowing heads make for a quick revving engine which is perfect in a light A body with factory drivetrain. The problems start with big tires and big cam which challenge a small cube...

I've seen 2 early stock rebuilt 340's dyno 276 and i think 281 and thought they were around 9.5:1 stock. I have read the '71 340's with the big thermoquad dynoed higher at around 300? Doesn't matter they worked great in a light A body!

i'd be surprised if my 340 produces any more than 275 hp...it's built to stock specs with the small 600 cfm carb. When i was playing around with the carb i thought it was running lean judging by the plugs so i went richer with the metering rods.Eventually got an A/F gauge and had to go back to...

Absolutely...that's what's great about the hobby.My pistons are zero deck and i run a short duration cam that produces strong power from idle up. I'm convinced a lot of guys would be happier with smaller cams and smaller tires on the street.

exactly! I welded the slots to .4 to get about 20 mechanical and set my initial to 13 for a total of 34.I was getting a trace of detonation occasionally so i backed down to 11 initial and a total of 32. The dart pulls hard and runs cool and i was just wondering if i was leaving anything on the...

TX Mat and PH, at 30 power loss may be noticeable...exactly what i was asking ... and some great info for newbies HS!

no...i said 10..34...50.I welded the slots to .4 and curved my distributor to 14 ..34 ..and about 46.( I have done many) The question i am asking is what effect will changing the total from 34 to 30 have on engine performance?

I am terrible at explaining things..sorry. All i am wondering is what effect running a total of 30 degrees would have compared to a total of 34?

Really..i don't know but i didn't think there would be much vacuum at WOT.

do you arrive at those timing figures based on actual performance time or feel? I'm not a racer.

Ok...38 or 40 degree totals are definitely risky! ...will a noticeable power loss occur at 30 or 32 degree total?

just curious how a total of 30 or 36 would affect performance?

A good curve for a 10:1 340 usually falls around 10 initial with another 24 mechanical for a total of about 34 at around 3000 rpm without vacuum advance which may add another 16 or so for a cruising total around 50. how might the engine performance differ with totals of 30 - 36 at wot ( no vac...

So many times the experts have snubbed the stock mopar heads and specifically the poor exhaust ports.When i discussed my custom cam build at length with the Ultradyne tech he specifically said to keep the exhaust and intake duration the same.His reasoning was because of the excellent stock...

with a stock 8:1 comp 360 and a small cam...270 - 290

52 would be the total cruising with vacuum advance connected. Some guys don't use vac advance but it will improve efficiency for normal driving, and most recommend it.

i calculated the compression ratio with 72 cc heads and stock pistons around .020 above the deck and i got around 9.5:1. but i could be wrong.

Yes your around 9.5 :1 and iron heads are sensitive to detonation especially with the short duration stock cam.Be careful advancing your timing...you can get detonation without hearing it. 12 \ 34 \ 52 should serve you well.

If your compression is 9.5:1 or so and you have a stock cam with 3.23 gears your probably fine with an initial timing of around 10 - 12 degrees and a total of 34....right where you are. You can recurve your distributor to get a bit more initial and keep your total timing around 34 but you are...