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vent to atmosphere, put a small filter or screen on it if you want to keep crap out

just get a 72+ pump, it will fit, and not have the 3rd nipple for the carb bowl vent

I wouldn't worry about the hard line too much if it looks to be in decent shape. Just blow air thru it after disconnecting it from the fuel pump as other posters said. Replace your rubber line with 30r9 (fuel injection hose) or 30r14 barricade line (sold at O'Reillys). It's better than the...

Did you adjust the valves? Is either motor mount worn out, specifically the passenger side one?

I have no idea If you look at the FSM for slant6 cars all through the years they all say to set timing around 0 degrees. Check it out. I even had a reputable member of the .org forum recurve me a distributor and it still pinged because he didn't weld the advance plates. You HAVE to weld the...

No

Every stock or rebuilt/remanufactured distributor I've used on a slant had too much mechanical advance. You have to back the timing way off (low initial) to get it to not ping. To get better performance you will almost for sure need to weld up the advance plates. On slantsix.org there's threads...

Bowl vent to canister or leave open to atmosphere. Do not plug.

have you cleaned out the carb? Your description of how it degraded sounds like it may have gotten plugged up? I doubt it though since you had a fuel filter. But you describe that the spark is fine so that's where I'd go next. Clean the carb completely and see what happens. You can usually tell...

ballast resistor

disconnect the vacuum advance and check the timing

White lithium grease in an aerasol can is choice, or just use whatever you have laying around. To get later shifts you need a finer adjustment than adding a nut+bolt. As you experienced adding that makes the shifts too late. In your case now, if you're unhappy with the current shift points...

Also looks like the distributor is hooked up to manifold vacuum, it shouldn't, should be at ported vacuum (port on the passenger side). Disconnect distributor vacuum advance while trying to start the car.

What on earth is that thing connected to your PCV valve? Is that a filter attached to it? That's not how it works. A PCV valve is a valve to suck the fumes out of your engine so to speak. It doesn't let any are out through it without vacuum (think 1 way check valve). You should hook up your PCV...

Yes, you want the slot bottomed out on the throttle pin. According to the FSM you should make the adjustments at the transmission and linkage points, however, a quick way to 'cheat' is to use a nut/bolt/washer in the slot to give a little more adjustment. I did it that way for years and it...

Put the spring on. If you need the slot back further add a nut to the slot.

When you do get them off make sure the intake and exhaust gaskets are FLAT. If not, resurface them. After that the fel-pro gaskets will be fine. The problem with stainless steel hardware is the vast majority of it is soft, so I'd just go with grade 8 bolts if you're going the bolt route and use...

Not really sure what you mean. Do you have any pics? Broken flush, so meaning you can't get a pipe wrench on it or anything? Few different options. If it were me with my limited tooling i'd soak it for a bit with penetrating oil. If you have access to a torch heat it up also, let it cool. Then...

Turn down the idle at the carb after the engine is warm to make adjusting easier. You can get the idle down pretty low

Adjust the valves!!! After that ensure your PCV valve is fully functioning. Get a new one if need be.

i'd start at 10 degrees advanced and go from there if you're using a stock or reman stock distributor you will most likely have too much mechanical timing and need to weld up the advance holes a little

The vacuum pod is the thing you should set last. Get your car fully tuned without it. Your car will run and drive just fine with it unplugged. There should be minimal vacuum, if any at all, at the ported vacuum port at idle.

I have a variety I bought and I can't remember if any actually worked correctly. I can send them to you for cheap. PM me.

A random miss like that could honestly be anything. I was battling one for 2 months and it turned out to be my PCV valve. Don't ask me how, I have no idea. I would definitely change your fuel filter and check all electrical connections.

turquoise

@doc540 I fought this problem for years. Do all of the things @slantsixdan suggested and it should help. I will add it wasn't until I added a good quality heat shield below the carb for the fuel smell to stop. Part of it is today's gas, and part of it is because the vast majority of carburetors...

I assume it's a stock slant 6 radiator? 19" or whatever that size is? If so, unless you're trying to go full original restoration, I wouldn't re-core it. Those are wimpy radiators. If you want to keep the stock-ish look get an early 70s 22" Mopar radiator and re-core it. It will bolt right in...

As far as the exhaust manifold to pipe studs, I had to take both of those studs out and replace them with bolts [grade 8]. You can get them out. Bolts will work just fine, i've been using them for years with no leaks. With the 3 bolts that connect the intake and exhaust manifold together, those...