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So your saying that forcing coolant to pass through a radiator multiple times isn't leaving the coolant in the block longer to build more heat?. Seems to me like that could be considered "moving too slow" in laymans terms. The triple pass radiator was a big restriction to overcome and I was...

I used them a few times in the past but the last time I called them to build me one for my duster I left it up to them to build me the best radiator for my setup. That's how I wound up with a triple pass desert cooler deal and had overheating issues at idle/slow cruise. I talked to the local...

The difference is the copper will weigh more/have more rows to cool the same as aluminum. I would never buy into the triple pass stuff, the longer the water sits in the radiator the longer it sits in the block, at low rpm that is a no go.

I should clarify that my post above had nothing to do with the cooling properties of aluminum vs copper but the design of the radiator. On all my cars it took a 3-4 core copper high efficiency radiator to cool the same as a modern 2 core/bigger tube aluminum radiator and the aluminum is cheaper...

My experience is years ago I paid good money for a "super desert special deluxe lol" custom copper radiator from a big source like mentioned above and it sucked for cooling at idle. I replaced it with a cheap champion off ebay and changed nothing else, problem solved, we figured the water was...

:lol:

I have only checked high performance t-stats but the multiple ones I tested started opening lower than the advertised rating (10 degrees or so) and were basically full open by the time they reached temp.

There is no question which one is right, if you have a t-stat rated at 180 that's not fully open until 190 then it's a 190 t-stat and is junk. Pretty simple but I am sure it will still be argued to death even though a guy that actually made them clarified how they work already.

I really like the flowkooler pumps, we use them on all our mopar builds.

You nailed this.

Some years ago I got sucked into a "triple pass" radiator and the only thing it was good for was triple the stress when idling. I tried every fan/shroud configuration possible and had a high flow thermostat and flowkooler pump. The temp would just creep up at idle until it was time to pull over...

I have no problem running the fans you posted, I ran them for years and actually have one on my car now. They are a quality built piece and do not worry me, now the other junk I stay away from. Truthfully I don't like any mechanical fan on my car, not because of power gains or losses etc., but...

Not sure brand they were but this was the style of cheap "death fans" I remember. We would see these on display at the local speed shops (Radke auto parts/supershops/baxters) and half of them had loose rivets!, no joke.

This is the direction I am heading towards on my current car (and serpentine setup), I've run electric fans in the past and was happy. For me it's not really about the performance it's about the cleanliness and not having to worry about snagging stuff on a fan including body parts lol.

The only problem I see with the fan tests is they all do it in static air with no flow, and how much hp/torque/cubic inch has some relevance as well from what I have seen. The minute air moves through the flex fan is reduces drag. Flex Fan Better than a Clutch Fan? - CorvetteForum - Chevrolet...

Finally

I can get pics/measurements tomorrow for you, and I cleaned out the inbox.

Just remember you cannot go wrong with the BIGGEST AND MOST EFFICIENT radiator you can fit. There is no such thing as overcooling as that can be controlled, all I can say is the experience I have had with allot of mopar radiators in a bodies is so far the cold case (with the warranty they offer)...

I would recommend the 26" radiator,I have the cold case mop750 in my dart and love the thing. I have a pretty stout 410 making a little over 500 hp and a 7 blade flex fan with no shroud and it's never been over 195. I did have to drill holes in my core support but it fit without having to beat...

Imo put in biggest tube/core size radiator you can get the first time around and when I did the math the cold case was it for a mopar.

I am really happy with my cold case radiator,it has 1.25 tubes,also got a discount for being a fabo member,just message Ccas for info.

In my post I never said it was marketed for abody mopars but if you look at the original dimensions of the cc374 they were nearly indentical to a factory 26" abody radiator.If you do a search there are alot of guys that dropped them in without issue until some time ago when they changed to a...

Wanted to pass some info along,I noticed a couple threads lately stating the champion cc374 radiator would not fit an abody without cutting the lower support and since I wanted to use this radiator I did some checking.I borrowed one to test fit and it was too tall,the tank to tank measurements...

Thanks for the info fishy,I will have to think about this a bit.

This is a good thread to read,Ive heard alot of good about these radiators and the few bad ones Ive heard about (twisted) were exchanged for a good one with no problems.Could it be the shipping thats twisting them?,at any rate I was about to pull the trigger and try one out,any one know how they...

If i read your post right your running a single electric fan and no shroud?-correct me if Im wrong-but if so Ive had alot of problems trying to make that work on the street.You can make them work but it took both me and my friend a couple of electric fans and a custom shroud for our cars to stay...