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'62-'66 A-body K-Frame Reinforcement Kit (DIY)

Yep. Calipers should be front mounted.

Well, you have to carefully measure the nubs, then grind some and try turning the wheels back and forth & grind some more. It's trial and error. You can always take more off, but as a wise old friend of mine used to say "I don't know how to cut on".

Here's a thread about the issue. Look at the pic in the last post. It clearly shows the nub. lower ball joint types -- nub or no nub?

It's not from a spool. It's from the fact that the lower ball joint has a nub on it that limits how far the ball joint can travel. Grinding it down fixes the problem. 10" front drum brake cars don't have this issue.

Not due to track width. It's the lower ball joint.

BTW, James, start spraying the k member mounting bolts with PB Blaster now and let them soak before trying to remove the bolts. Don't want to strip those!

Yes, it looks correct. Not really a hole, but just where they didn't weld the mounting pad for the steering box. I plan to go over and take a look at the k member on James' car soon to compare it to what mine looked like.

This. Had to do this exact thing on my old 66 Barracuda when I did this upgrade several years ago. Measure them before starting and carefully grind them the same amount so the turning radius is the same in both directions.

Not a bad idea to reinforce it. I would take it out of the car, mainly to get it really clean and inspect it for cracks. Can't weld it with grease & paint on it. With the engine out, it's pretty easy. I did it with the engine in. If you decide to do it, the guy who did the welding on mine still...

Yes, you are correct.

Try bigger torsion bars and a front sway first with the stock rear springs and good shocks. I owned the Red Brick (Tim Werner's old Valiant) for two years. It had the largest torsion bars you could fit in the car with a big front sway bar, a small rear bar and ancient stock 340 leaf springs. It...

Yep, hit my head on that cage a couple of times. It does have subframe connectors as well. I have wanted Bob Reed's old Barracuda ever since I read that article. Anyone know where it ended up? I've been Mopar-less for 6 months now.

No need to apologize, just stating the facts. Yeah, I know Joe, the guy with Tomswheels car. Haven't heard from him in a while, though.

FYI - I sold the Red Brick last fall and now the guy I sold it to has recently sold it to another owner here on FABO. I never actually got under the car to see what the subframe connectors were like. I pretty much just drove it and did maintenance and fixed an oil leak. I'm sure you'll be...

When you say "run good at the track", what do you mean? Drag strip or road racing? Either way, I would talk to Firm Feel before buying anything from Magnum Force.

I went with Firm Feel on my 1966 Barracuda (since sold). I would add that if you have to trim the UCA mount as 72bluNblu pointed out, I would add a gusset on the other side like so.

My Valiant has a FF stage 3. It's great!

Listen to 72bluNblu. You don't need coilovers. My Valiant (originally Tim Werner's), with a good driver (not me), would run circles around a 2009 Challenger in autocross or road racing. Search www.moparts.com for "red brick valiant" or "Tim's Valiant". There is a lot of info on the car on the...

POR 15 has a product called Metal Prep that etches bare metal so the POR 15 will adhere. I used it on the frame rails of the Barracuda I owned.

Do some more research on Mopars that handle. You'll see that most use large t bars. The Valiant I own is regarded as the most track capable stock type suspension A body in existence and it has 1.24" t bars.

Just to clarify - It wasn't me driving when the car went 160 mph @ portland. That was the guy who built it, Tim Werner. Anyone considering building an A body for handling should use it as a template. I have yet to push the car really hard, but it is really fast and handles extremely well. It...

You're not going to be able to connect a sway bar to those if you put those on an early a.

Those aren't early a lower control arms. They are for later cars.

My old Barracuda has it. I drove it for years with a 16:1 manual box. You won't mind it.

James, I think the Hotchkis springs will work. I asked that question when I had my 66. Not sure why they only say 67 and up. They are all the same length.

It's definitely much more capable than I am! The Valiant is scary fast and handles extremely well. I can't even come close to using half of it's potential on the street. Can't wait to get it on a track someday. For those that don't know about the Valiant (aka The Red Brick), Google "track day...

Mine were like that on my 66 Barracuda.

Sounds good. Send me a PM with his email address. Thanks! Lee

Hmmm. They are contradicting what their website says about membership. http://www.lmsportscarclub.org/static.php?page=membership