Search results for query: *

Did the distributor turn a bunch while it was loose?

I think the first thing I would do is charge the battery for a couple hours, then see if it will crank.

If the battery is good, I would just run a small piece of wire from the negative and ground it in the engine compartment, or on the block. Then you can check to see if a light, or ignition or something will energize. Could just use meter from your positive up front to ground.

I'd start by cleaning the battery connections first.

Bad plug, bad coil, and bad wire. What else did this guy touch? I would go over that truck with a fine tooth comb. Pay special attention to the trans as he may have did that job too.

Not sure what rpm has to do with spark plugs. Some engines even fire twice on compression. Not only that, an engine doesn't even need spark plugs to have rpm. Some engines fire at compression, have rpm and no plugs at all. And of course there are the 4-6-8 engines.

After three carbs, if that is really where the noise originates, I would look elsewhere. Maybe a crack in the intake, stud not holding tight, etc.

^^^Third carb?

How long has this been going on? Maybe you could pull the plugs and check for a vacuum related lean burn condition.

What other electronics are installed? CB, GPS, power booster, EQ, FM converter, 10,000 watt sub woofer amp, automatic electric antenna, dedicated memory hot wire. Is the noise left, right or center to the dash? Have you tried disconnecting the alternator? Does the radio play ok? That just...

I would say spray a little water on the belt, but if you are sure it is inside, probably some sort of radio interference. Instead of just turning off the radio, can you disconnect the speaker?

I hear more of a whistle. Some of the other noises are more normal. I'll think about it.

I kinda thought the new electronics would be worse than the old used one these days. Go ahead and buy new but I would test that old piece and hang on to it. So far every strange thing I threw away, I regretted having done so.

Don't they have a liquid you can just put on the wire to re-insulate them. Then you can see if the thing works, and if you can't deal with it, it will give you time to look around and save a little money. Gotta be an original of one of those floating around somewhere.

Just start by cleaning all the connections.

If you know anyone one with old Mopar keys just try theirs. When you find one that works, copy it. There were very few cuts.

The ECU merely picks up a weak signal from the pickup coil generated by the reluctor passing close by. It amplifies the signal and sends it along to the ignition coil which opperates the same as a contact point system. The ECU and coil have no idea where the spark will ultimately go, the...

Grip the nose of the hood firmly with one hand. Hold the plug end of the four questionable wires in the other. Have assistant crank engine. Measure distance from vehicle to landing area and compute voltage.

So...just about everything is covered here. The answer may lie in the improbable. This situation occuring is almost impossible on its own. However, given the human factor it could easily be duplicated. That would mean you would have to cause it on purpose. Do you maybe have some friends (or...

By the way, if the plugs are wet fouled they may not fire. Just wondering how you tested for spark. With a dual plane too much fuel could be finding its way over there.Dry the plugs, open the choke, don't pump the throttle, and try it. Maybe someone could look down the carb for you. I would...

I kind of thought the rocker shaft worked its self loose, but if there is truly no spark then it wouldn't matter. You say it turns over smoothly, and a shaft that worked loose may not allow that. There aren't a whole lot of things that the cylinders of one bank have in common. Crank, head...

I can think of a few mechanical reasons. Are you certain there is no spark on the affected bank?

The last thing I want to have is a dealer getting ahold of my car. I pay good money to drive them off the lot, hopefully the one and only time. If I cant fix it I just get rid of them. Far less hassle. I did a few clock springs on my Town and Country. They just dont seem to last on those cars.

I suppose you could test the motor with a fuse in the jumper wire, to see if it blows. To test for drag, disconnect the linkage and run the motor with no load.

Wonder what they're thinking. We're just trying to power an old car, not an aircraft carrier.

Obviously whoever is making these things think that changing the ratings is a function of color.

Put a matching cap and rotor on. Might help.

I can just see some geek busting out a slide rule and plugging ohms law into it, and telling you exactly what component is causing it.

I'd ignore it, unless you put the correct bulb in there and it lites also. Or if you experience a discharged battery condition.

Turn on the headlights, then open the door and see what the light does.