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One thing to remember is that once you tighten a bolt into a helicoil the helicoil expands. If that cap was helicoiled I can see how it would crack seeing that there is not enough material to support that expansion.

Just go to a shop that sells Aeroquip fittings and they should be able to fix you up with something.

Whatever you paid for it was too much. Look for something else.

This happened to me once on a V6 Olds. Sounded like a rod but turned out to be loose torque converter bolts.

Finally, someone that understands oil ratings.

The advantage in milling has nothing to do with valve angle. It has everything to do with reducing the size of the combustion chamber and increasing the compressio.

We used CAM2 exclusively. Luckily we got fuel free from a local speed shop as they were one of our sponsors.

Years ago we ran in a class that required flat top pistons and stock heads. We built a 355 Chevy with double hump corvette heads that were angle milled one hundred thousands and had 285 psig compression. It really ran great.

I used the 8774paint1 turquoise on my 64 engine And I just ran into an old can of the Mopar Performance turquoise and they are an exact match.

I used their paint on my ‘64 Belvedere engine and I’m very happy with the results.

I second using Gibbs or Brad Penn.

The 340 in my ‘69 340 Formula S survivor was turquois.

I waited over a year for a custom ground flat tappet solid lifter cam. Now I’m hearing that the manufacturers are no longer offering them and the cost of the lifter has almost double.

Cometic head gaskets. You can get them in any thickness. I’m using two different thickness gaskets on my new motor in order to correct the deck height difference.

I can’t agree more with going OEM. My M-Code ‘Cuda ran less than 190 degrees in 90 degree weather and I’m in Charlotte NC.

I believe that the slotted bolt was used on 340’s.

FYI, Little Red Trucks used E58 motors.

Why don’t you just contact SCAT?

So sorry to hear about your friend.

Many years ago I read in the Syracuse Herald Journal that a local man had is arm nearly amputated when in fan blade broke. He ended up loosing his arm and I’m always leery of them when working on cars. It might have been a million to one shot to happened again but why take the chance. Replace...

To the best of my knowledge the bolt with the slot was specific to 340’s and the bolt with the holes were for 273’s and 318’s.

Cleaned up.

If your interested I’ve got a brand new set of Mopar Performance and a new set of Hughes small block lifters. These were purchased years ago and I would want $110.00 (includes shipping) per set for them.

Back in my “roundy round” days we used Torque converters out of Vega’s for the 355 Chevelle with a Powerglide. We ran a 1/2 mile asphalt track with a 3.08 rear and we ran the powerglide in low with the tranny kick down lever pulled back for increased fluid pressure.

You should never be able to spin the valve springs by hand. The best advise to follow would be to pull the heads and take them to a reputable machine shop and they will diagnose and fix the issue for you.

Resurfacing the block does not remove the vin number.

My 69 340 Barracuda Survivor was Turquoise and it was built 2/22/69.

I have a question. How do the cylinder bores and wrist pins get oiled if the squirt holes are eliminated?

Make sure that you mark both the inner and outer for TDC that way you can tell if the outer slips further.

I used evapo-rust before but the motor was out of the car.