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Another hiccup I found. The calipers I set back to rebuild were from a 75 Dart. Both calipers had stuck pistons. One was phenolic and the other steel. Apparently they were late production because they were the 2.75 piston models. I already had the parts to build the 2.59 piston models so now I...

If you require that much volume it would seem the rear brakes are too far off the drum. Disc brakes ride the rotor so that is not where your volume is required. If the rod is not the correct length of the MC is not spaced properly you may not be allowing the MC to draw fluid. That is where the...

Yes but those calipers are of a different design. That is why I specifically mentioned the A, F and M bodies. They use the same pads which mean the calipers interchange on the spindles for an easy swap. If you pull up the 10-1571 in the PDF it shows 15/16 as the bore and it is the factory MC for...

That is unusual. The factory 10-1571 is a 15/16 bore. My pedal moves a little further down but well off the floor and stops where I want it now.

First off let me give you the link to this super handy PDF master cylinder identification catalog from Cardone that has pictures, bore diameter and fitting specs. It is a little over 21MB so it takes a second or ten to download. The master cylinder I use on my cars in place of the 10-1571 is...

My big block Duster had power. I just removed all the bracket and booster crap and bolted the master to the firewall making sure I had a good retainer on the rod and it was seated properly. If you don't want quite as stiff a pedal go with the small bore cloud car masters.

How much travel is in your parking brake when you apply it? Adjusting it for less travel may limit the action of the self adjuster.......

All the cable stuff from the 7.25 9" brakes on my 68 worked on the B-body 8.75 with 10" brakes. Seems like I had to back off the adjuster nut up front a bit.

The whole Idea was to prevent heat transfer to the fluid. DOT 4 fluid can pretty much handle most high temp applications now so no need to worry there. If what you have works I wouldn't really worry about the mis-match. I think those calipers are pretty cheap though.

I was working as a tech at a White's Auto Store back in 1980 something and did a brake job on an Aspen. Everything seemed to check out and it stopped fine. The guy takes it across town and brings it back with a smoking left front! My first experience with the phenolic piston!

Phenolics were a good idea that doesn't work. Too high a failure rate (stuck pistons).

When it pulls does it also dive either way? In the picture shown I see the primary (short) shoe is in the front as it should be. I trust all are this way....

All the ones I've had do this over the years held pressure long enough that you have time to actually get out and do it yourself. They should release immediately so any residual pressure is a sign of a problem.

Jack it up on the diff and apply the brakes. Then try to turn either wheel after releasing very quickly. If it takes a while for the brakes to release then your rubber line is indeed acting like a check valve and should be replaced. Pulling on braking can also be strut rod bushings, control arm...

I've heard that but it always seems like somebody has an exception, usually because somebody else has gotten their mitts on the car. I'm sure that Mopar tried to use up all the parts they had on these things though. I bought a slant 73 Duster body once with no doors for $75 mainly because...

Does that also mean he might have the small ball joint control arms Rusty or is there a firm cut off on those? These cars are so old now and have been monkeyed with enough you probably should check your dash VIN# against the core support #s to see if it was a re-body.....

Since you should already have the large ball joint control arms just go with the A, F, M, J spindle swap. Cars like the 85 5th Avenue should be fairly common in the salvage yards....

Our 70 Town & Country wagon and the 70 300 had the 3" drums....

Depending on the Imperial the bolt pattern may be larger than 5 on 4.5.... My 71 Imperial is Chevy pattern....

The drums with a rough cut will try and thread the shoes either into or away from the backing plate or drum until they hit and release and start all over again. This is most likely the sound and shudder you are feeling. A good smooth final cut on the drums with proper adjustment and you should...

I just bought one of those master cylinders myself along with the new flair nuts. I just haven't decided which car to put it on. I've been sitting on the adapter plate for a few years.....

I've also seen 91-95 Chrysler mini-vans with all wheel drive that have the bracket pattern of the 8.75 axle housing. There are posts on here somewhere with that info.... They use top hat style emergency brakes.

After looking at the Jeep stuff (non vented rotors) I realized why I went with the Intrepid front rotors and Cadillac calipers. Overkill I'm sure but vented is nice.... You'll find Dana-Spicer parts and GM, Ford and Mopar.... and those darn Saginaw power steering pumps.....

I forgot to mention the adapter and probably need the adjustable rod as well.... While looking for a rod pic I found an offset version that can give you ideas on how to move the master up a bit....

They require a fitting change but are compact. 1990 Plymouth Sundance part#NMC1945

Several members like the "Cloud Car" master cylinder swap because of the smaller bore giving better power and feel and they are slimmer. As far as an offset mount like the power boosters use I'm not sure how that would work out on a manual setup. The leverage advantage is lost...

He beat me to it.... Speedway Motors should have something.....

I went with the speedway brackets and Cadillac calipers just for availability and E brakes hook easily.

94-97 Intrepid front rotors are a good fit that may require slight turning of the flange or inside the hat. Not sure what the Jeeps use on the later 8.25 but that should be a place to look.

We automatically go for the stuff we experienced and then find out oh crap it's an A100 DUH! I bet the spring is pulling back on one side a bit.