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Not exactly the same, but the 0.509, 292 juicer purple I ran in a 383 was fantastic. My converter was way too tight, but once she hit 3k it was a Ninja rocket! Building a more scienced out 440 version of that engine for my '69 Dart GT, Torker, 2" to 2 1/8" Step Proparts style semi fender well...

I'm going to run a Torker with a spread bore adapter on my 440 Dart if I can.

Tunnel ram is a "Ram charger" original idea, and they make amazing torque and HP. Just sucks looking around it in a street car.

The great thing about the 383 is you can wrap the pee out of it and it will never break. It's a magic motor.

My build isn't for everyone, but I am recreating a mid 80's 383 build for my 440, but with more modern tech. Using quench block hypereutectic pistons set to 0.035" quench, old school 0.509" 292° 108° hydraulic cam, single springs with damper, back cut stainless 2.14" 1.88" valves, Total seal gap...

I don't want to use solid mounts on my 440 Dart, but I do want much more stable than rubber. I have poly mounts in my '93 Cummins Dodge and they are great, but I haven't been able to find them for the Dart.

Don't know yet, but I am assuming pretty good since two tubes go over the frame on one side and one on the other. They are slip tube, makes everything easier. Has a similar set of Hookers on a Hemi car I once had and really liked them.

I bought 2" to 2 1/8" step headers from Mazzolini, Pro Parts style, semi-fender well. Then I had them ceramic coated. They allow power steering and starter removal/install, but they are $$$$$$$$$$$

Will do, planned on fitting it before engine install.

Probably only 500HP, but 600 lb/ft. I think it won't be an issue with street tires, will never get traction at any speed, but if I put stickies on it the trans will be the weakest link (the Dana 60 will never break). Maybe I drive it until I can't... :)

Hey Dan, are hardened 23 spline input shafts available for the A833, and do I need to worry about it in a 500hp '69 Dart 440?

Part # 15335

Has anyone out there broken a 23 spline input shaft? I would rather not go to the expense of upgrading my trans, but on the other hand I tend to make bad choices with power and torque!

Putting a 440 in my '69 Dart with a Lakewood scatter shield and A833, Dana 60 out back. It will have less than 600hp to the wheels, probably about 600 torque, trying to decide on the proper flywheel and clutch size. Does the Lakewood change anything for ring gear size?

I went with Mazzolini Pro Parts step headers for mine, had them ceramic coated. Your install looks really good!

383 is a blast in a light car, and pretty much unbreakable if never run out of oil. But it isn't a drop in, as stated above. I'm putting a 440 in my '69 Dart and the headers alone were 1K. Mounts, different water pump housing, transmission and driveshaft, rear axle, it all adds up, plus you...

383 is a great engine, don't let the meatheads deter you from your vision. I'm building a 440 for mine, but I like the 383 better because the piston speeds are lower and you can rev the snot out of a 383 without breaking it. I once build a 383 for a '74 Cuda I had that was fearsome and really...

Trying to see how much HP I need to make to get to a high 10's, any of you weigh your 440 4-speed Dana 60 Stock Body Darts?

From 440 Source: Shown above is our original factory USED "187" oil pan, Chrysler part number 2532186. See the table at the bottom of this page for exact applications, but in general, this pan was used from 1965-71 on "C" body cars with 383's and 440's. These make a great pan for swapping big...

Some C bodies had a pan that works in A-Body big block.

Bob Mazzolini semi-fenderwell for that HP level. No problem with power steering and you can change the starter with the headers in place.

They technically describe different things, but are tied together.

"SAE acknowledge that for motors with 3.5” to 4.5” cylinder bores, a quench distance of 0.035” to 0.040” work well and result in near zero clearance due to thermal expansion, rod stretch and piston rock-over." Engine Quench What Is The Ideal Quench Height? - Hot Rod Magazine - Hot Rod Quench...

Dome height .075", deck clearance to piston flat .030", head open chamber depth .085"

If I bolt it together with a .022" compressed steel shim head gasket I will have .062" between the quench dome and the head, that is more than I want. Again, with my cam I will have an issue controlling detonation at .062" (coming from Big Block experience). I am rethinking which way to go...

Not trying to ruffle any feathers or be contentious, but 1st and 2nd gen Hemis have 360 degree squish and quench, and 3rd gen Hemis have two large quench and squish areas on the sides of the combustion chamber. I have had (or still have) all three generations of Hemi engines and run them. So I...

Yes, it has.

My instinct is to bring the pistons to zero deck height, but maybe that isn't the best way. Will think some more about it.