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Well, I got the engine to start pretty easy after all this. Just had to throw in a little starter spray and get the fuel to fill the carb and it started pretty quick. Thanks again to all that helped.

Ok, thanks. I redid the tests for curiosity sake and here are the readings:

Did a check on the coil, condenser and points. Found that points were bad. Changed them and now I have spark at the plugs. Thanks to all.

By the way, these readings never made any sense to me. I just figured out which wires went where and made sure they were okay.

While I had the AMMETER wires out, I added a kill switch. Works great. Dorman Part #84830. It's a 25 amp switch so I assume it can handle the load.

I did change the BALLAST and the STARTER SWITCH RELAY just because they looked pretty crappy old. Primary circuit picture from Mopar training video below, missing the CLUTCH STARTER SAFETY SWITCH and I find that odd since the clutch pedal needs to be pressed in for the starter to fire off...

Update: The primary side is good from the BATTERY up to the BALLAST. I just got the starter to turn over with the ignition key. Main issue was that the wires to the AMMETER were disconnect to the AMMETER itself. I went ahead and reconnected them and got the starter to turn over with the key...

I bought a new ignition switch and tested it before I installed. I still don't know what readings I should have and where to go from here. I assume that the neutral safety switch is keeping the Yellow wire from showing voltage. I have a 3 speed manual floor shifter in the car right now...

These readings don't look right. Shouldn't they be 12.5 V and not those really low 0.2 and 0.3 V? And why is the IGN RUN Blue wire 12.5 V in the OFF position? I just bought a new ignition switch but I want to make sure before I install it.

Those readings are with the connectors hooked up. I don't know if the seat belts have interlock. What year was that added in? I'll look. I wonder if the NEUTRAL SWITCH is affecting this in any way.

Those CRANK position tests look wrong.

I pulled the instrument panel out and the ALTERNATOR INDICATOR is NOT connected. The PO didn't connect the power and ground wires back up. I checked voltage across the two wires that are sitting there loose and viola, 12 V reading. Reconnected the ALTERNATOR INDICATOR and retesting the...

Continuity Check: There is continuity for all the wires when I turn ignition switch to the proper positions. Voltage Test: No voltage on any wires when I turn ignition switch to the proper positions. All fuses are new.

Ok, so let me get this straight. Continuity Check: 1. With the multimeter, set it to CONTINUITY. 2. Connect the RED lead of the multimeter to the RED wire in the connector. 3. Probe each wire, using paper clip; YELLOW, BROWN, BLUE, BLACK. 4. All readings should be ZERO. Question: Do...

I don't know how I'm supposed to recheck with voltage. That means I have to reconnect the connector......then what?

It's a no start. I'm going through the whole circuit. I can turn the the engine by jumping the starter relay switch but not with the ignition switch. And I do not have spark at the spark plugs.

I looked in the Electrical section in the FSM for 1970 and I did not see an ignition switch test. I'll try what you said here.

I changed the voltage regulamalator and my car still won't start.......and what's a volt meter? :oops:

How can I test the ignition switch on the steering column with the connector? I assume there is a test method for the switch using a multimeter.

So what solved your problem after all?

Is this the starter relay switch and where is it located?