Search results for query: *

I have a pair of the early large outlet magnum manifolds off a van if you are interested.

I bet there is a member near you who can help with the installation. As I stated earlier I am a bit too far away for you unless you are up for a road trip up to northern delaware.

If you lived closer I would tell you to come over to my garage and we would get them in. I have a lift and all my tools from when I used to wrench. My buddy has a Lazer alignment rack too.

Was thinking rhe same thing.

I was told by the guy I traded a used set of stahl fenderwell headers for the pro parts that they make 30 sets of pro parts a year and when they are out of stock thats it til the next run. Don't know if there is any truth to this though. He is running a 730 hp Indy headed 528 inch rb motor and...

I agree that the pro parts headers will need some tweaking but they are not coated and because they are a multi piece design any modifications are more easily achieved.

I was lucky enough to find a set of new pro parts headers in the box for my car. I know some people dont want to cut the inner fenders but I have no interest in the tti big block A-body headers after hearing so many complain of fit issues. I know when you are dealing with conversion mounts, D.C...

I used air injection smog heads on my 70 Dart with stock manifolds. I carefully ground the boss on the head and the offending part of the exhaust manifold. I use no gaskets just exhaust sealer. No leaks.

If I understand your post correctly the thread in the head for the stud is 5/8" and it necks down to 3/8" for the manifold. You could use a stainless steel 5/8" bolt of the correct thread and drill and tap it for the 3/8" stud. Use bearing race loctite or epoxy to secure your insert and seal it.

If you use the 93 magnum maifolds you must have a floor shifted automatic. They will hit the z bar for clutch or column shift linkage. Early A-bodies have very limited space and besides the original 273 drivers side manifold you are going to have fitment issues.

I would use a product sold by Toyota called "black seal packing" just like black silicone but it is eurethane and that stuff will seal anything. By far the best sealer I have ever used.

Only special tool needed is a harmonic ballancer puller. You will need a 1 1/4" socket for the ballancer bolt too. Other than that its all basic hand tools.

A four barrel and dual exhaust will help but ultimately the cam is what controls how much air the motor will move and at what rpm band. Doing a cam in the car is a bit of a pain but definitely worth it. The hardest part is getting the timing cover back on. If you shop around you could do a cam...

My motor has an old direct connection .455 lift 272 duration cam and lifter kit. I put it in my dads stick shift shorty van back in the eighties. It still had the two barrel intake so needless to say it did not run too good but I was a kid then and did not know any better. The motor is now in my...

Good and affordable don't usually go together with A-body headers. I went with stock manifolds on the 318 in my beater dart. I changed the cam and added a performer intake with thermoquad. Woke the motor right up. Is your motor a stock two barrel?

Unless you have Doug's or tti headers, you will need to run the center link through the drivers side header. Usually helps if you loosen the motor mount nut and lift the engine with a floor jack on the side you are working on. A heat shield for the starter is a good idea too.