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So I think I have torque converter problems with my 65 dart gt /6. I did a quick trans rebuild and it still wont move in first or reverse. Im thinking torque converter got trashed with all the clutch shavings. So Im looking at the parts stores/ rock auto/ebay etc and Im haveing trouble finding...

I have purchased just the snap rings from DR. Diff in the past . He can fix you up.

Of just use the stuff labled ATF. if you look at the bottle you will see it covers dextron 3 which is the original fluid for chrysler automatics until the overdrive unit came out.

not the same seal as the newer ones. Looks kind of like a funky O-ring. you can pick the old one out and replace without dropping valvebody. Throttle Lever Shaft Kickdown Seal TF6 TF8 Torqueflite 6 8 727 904

3/4"-16 I believe

I really don't think they are a POS like previously stated. they are built for the power level of the engine in front of them. That said especially the diesels are very easy to bump up the power and then the trany fails and its a POS. also mid 90's automatics the lockup in the converter were...

Are you putting a sure grip carrier in a case/gear that you have been useing? If so dont disturb the pinion unless you need to change bearings/seal. Just do as AJ said to the carrier and set backlash.

Another option that I have used with great success is a JY piece from a dakota/durango with tow package or a bit more compact one from the ford exploder/expedition. Get the ones with threaded fittings If you want to go AN-6 or some have barbed ends for hose.

Like he said. you just want to be able to move car. replace the seal put your reman converter in and fill fluid. It will keep you mobile for a while. your leak most likely was from the crack/seal and just ran down to the area you saw the fluid at.

If that breakes off pump no pump wheels no go round and round. if it Jambs in there could do more damage. Just replace the seal and torque converter and press on.

I just go down to Fastenal and get some.

Unless you run big slicks and other traction enhancement devices you will be fine with a suregrip in that 8.75. You can get upgraded axles from doctor diff probably the weak link of stock pieces.

Maybe someone here has a old DC or mopar performance book that has the actual demensions of the crank flange.

There are a couple of exceptions to the bolt pattern that I have run into. first there is a 8 bolt crank flange. and some early eagle 4" cranks had the std mopar 6 bolt and a chevy 6 bolt pattern on the same flange.

Do you have a stock flexplate you could use as a template to see if the new plate or the crank is the issue? also depending on size of converter there are different bolt patterns for the converters.

Youtube is your friend on this type of issue. depending on whats wrong with it some of them can be repaired in the truck.

Im fairly sure that the controller you are looking at will NOT control shifts on a RE series trans, you need to find a pre 94 or so version that is hydr except for overdrive and torque converter lockup.

FYI the Dana 35/44 has axles held in by the retaining plate like a 8.75 and the 8.25 has axles held in by C-clip..

You need to shim the starter away from the flywheel. Just put a washer between the starter and bell and try it. If the grind stops make a proper shim from some aluminum plate. or just leave the washers.

FYI the little mod I tried to bleed the pressure of the rear band servo did'nt work so I put a torque converter back in the car for now. I will modify the pump housing on my spare and get that ready to go. I know at one time there was a valvebody modification done by one of the mopar tranny...

I think I will try the pressure dump. It would be real easy to change it back if someone were to say something.

So I'm looking at the spare tranny and there is a plug in that rear servo. Could I run a line from that thru a ball valve and return it back to the pan. Close the valve to go and open it to act as a pressure dump. The other thing I need to know is will that work for both forward and reverse...

Humm so Either tighten the band untill it can just spin when not applied and or resrtict the fluid port to slow it down. the restriction sounds like the best first option. do you think I could do that with the trans in the car. I have a lift so getting under there is no problem. I have a spare...

Ok so I know this is somewhat unorthodox but I have a 904 in my dirt track car with a Direct drive so no converter. It hits so hard when i drop it in gear that I think I'm going to break something. I will be racing in second gear so I only need first and reverse to get moving or to back out of a...

There are a lot of people here that can help but with the limited info you gave it would all be guess work. that said I'm guessing you have a bigger cam and 4bbl and maybe headers. most likely first thing you need to do is get initial timing some where in the 18-20* BTDC then need to limit total...

Call Dr. diff.. he will have what you need and his prices and service are excellent. Damn beat at the busser..www.doctordiff.com

This cheap 68$ clutch lasted 10 years. But are no longer available and really its easier for me to change the clutch than put the spring back in. Besides I like the feel of the diaphragm type and no the car will not be sold it is already promised to my daughter when she can take care of it. I...

Thanks all got 4 helpful responses and one.. well I wont lower myself to that level..

Chris I will PM you

I need to replace the 68$ e-bay special clutch in the duster. anyone recommend a inexpensive replacement I want a diaphragm type as I don't want to put the overcenter spring back in. How about the Lux or Sachks ones on rockauto. going behind a 300hp 360 10.5" size.