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An 800 double pumper does sound good in theory but if you are just cruising around you may be too rich.If you smell gas at idle you are wasting gas in a street car.Try to find a friend with a smaller carb to test with and get it to temp before checking for issues.As stated that's condensation...

If the pump was mounted in a bind and not tightened down surface to surface removing the gear may relieve the bind and cause the pump to be loose.If that makes sence.

Sounds like you may have put the oil pump,drive gear in a bind.So you did start the engine?If so and it didn't have pressure then you most likely damaged the gear or the pump.

Was the engine running?While running the shaft the pulley bolts to has a magnetic pull.Never heard of one going so far as to magnetize the pulley though.I wonder if it was over charging?

You should have a triangle shaped piece to support the outer alternator bolt.Also if you can run the belt on the outer pulley it will miss the water pump. Here is a thread that should answer all your questions. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=200191

Neighbors like you two are hard to come by.Show there is still good in the world as for the pistons Imo smooth them down and run them just make sure the rings grooves are not pinched.

That's the setup you use when going from an a/c setup to a non a/c setup and keeping the a/c brackets and belts.Not sure why it is rubbing(it shouldn't) mine is the same setup.Is the belt loose and flopping into the waterpump?Looks like it should clear if the belt is tight.The back pulley is the...

You can also take the dust cover off the trans where it bolts to the engine and look for weights attached to the converter.If there is no weights you are one step closer to an internally balanced crank.the problem is you don't know if the guy you got it from just grabbed a bunch of parts and...

Because it tells what the engine came from factory as,whether it is still that way is to be determined as I said further in my post.And I also put a cast 318 crank in my 70 340.A little extra information never hurt anyone.

First is the engine stamped 72 or is the Vin 72.It makes a difference as the early 72 CARS had forged cranks and internally balanced.The stamped 72 should be in a 73 car which would be a cast crank and externally balanced.That being said when I put the KBs in my 340 each piston rod (scat I...

Referring to the stock internals not the shell.But BOTH outboard shells are different in that they have the fuel distribution tabs on the 340 models.

My 6 pack did the same thing until I got all the carbs setup close.I still have to run a touch rich to keep it from dieing when put into gear because my cam is too hot for a stock converter.So a stall is in the near future.Anyway I had to pull the lead plugs out to adjust the outboard carbs and...

What cam are you running and did you run it before the 6 pack swap?What,if any stall? Also there is a differemce in the 440 and 340 carbs.

Each outboard carb has idle screws in the lower front base cover with lead plugs.best route is to block off the out board carbs with blocks or something in that nature.get the center carb working with the correct timing then adjust the front carb idle and once that is set move it to the back and...

The problem is with the ac compressor installed the belts run around it and miss the water pump.When its removed the belts route has to be changed.I'll look for a post that show pics if both ac anc non ac setups.

you have an ac alternator bracket but a non ac alternator.First the ac alternator setup runs the two pulleys.when you remove the ac you can switch the belt to the outside only pulley on the alternator and run the PS on the inside crank pulley.If you only have the single pulley alternator then...

BTW I have a unknown cam also.I got the numbers off it and can not find any info on it and it is a mopar purple cam,which should be fairly documented.So getting to the numbers may not help you out.

Even if the balancer slipped you should be able to find TDC see where the timing line is(is it set to O degrees,it should be).If not mark it with a good visible marker.Set the timing from there.As for seeing it with a standard gun unless I'm forgetting something,you can't.340's like about 18...

I have a similar setup except I have 650 hp I beam scat rods and a little different cam.Anyway I have stock 1.88 valve heads and my calculations come out to be 10.1ish:1.worst case would be you have to run airplane fuel or an equivalent.

Long story short.Heads and cam won't show a huge jump with out the carb but the carb won't show a huge gain without a better exhaust.You have to move more air IN and OUT to get a huge gain.But doing the heads and cam is fine but adding the 4bbl and headers will show up better.Keep in mind the...

Seems as though a cast 340 crank may be a late 72 or 73 which are externally balanced.Check your balancer on the front of the motor see if it say anything.If they put a new convertor in and used one for a 69 340 it may be an internal balanced convertor and you may have an external balanced...

From what I found is there is two different gasket types that come in the full gasket set.Depending the engine you have.I have a 340 and tried the one piece gasket with the three "connecting" strips from the inner to the outer seals.This one would not tighten up enough to stop leaking,very bad...

if you loosened the bolt for timing,you may have loosened too much and the distributor shaft came out of the oil pump shaft.Make sure its still spinning.

I would but Im busy right now but you can look up the assy plant and what vechicals were made that your and get an idea of what it came out of.A qiuck look and all darts were made at the windsor plant in 1970

The motor was cast in 69 but was used in a 70 car.Check the vin number stamped on the passenger side just rearward of the motor mount and just above the oil pan.The car year will be the first number ,then the plant the car was built at then the cars last six id numbers. BTW I think I reconize...

It really depends on your location.340's are golden around here in a since and higher other places.I gave $400 for mine that had been to the machine shop complete with new cam bearings and ready to build.I also got a set of x heads with it but they need to be worked.

I see what looks like two big chunks of metal sitting in oil at the top end lifter housing.Plus look at the carbon build up in the dist. hole.Not saying the motor is junk but it does need a good cleaning to be effient.

I see what looks like bits of metal everywhere.You need to pull the pan and get a new oil pump,Im sure its full of metal also.BTW at that height the drive shaft should be out of the oil pump so more then likely its got carbon build up on it and just tight in the hole.Also with the lift and the...

I'm assuming it s a small block.What intakes were swapped?If an intake was sitting awhile it may have been clogged by a dirt dobber or something.

My guess is,since it is a 318 car.The original motor blew and the "shop" put a shortblock in it and may not have realized it was a360.I had a 84 4x4 150 ram that had the same setup but with the 318 two barrel intake.