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Here’s a guy with a 1968 Barracuda parts car, says it’s fairly complete. He might have the parts you need. [FOR SALE] - 68 barracuda notchback

If the white wire is "bundled" with other wires, it probably isn't the brake light input wire to the turn signal switch. I don't believe you can take the 12V brake light output and splice it into wires feeding the rear tail lamps. You'd be bypassing the turn signal switch and feeding the tail...

If you're using a column from a mid-seventies Imperial, I would think the turn signal switch would have the same colored wires as in the diagram I posted. You will have to find the wire in the column (probably white) that feeds the brake light power to the turn signal switch. From your...

While Dana looks for his diagram, see if this will help you trace down the connections you need to change. Send the brake light output to the turn signal switch, not directly to the rear lights. It looks like the brake light output should connect to a white wire that leads up the column to...

Scroll to the bottom of this thread and see if the posts and diagram help you follow the dash light path. 68 Barracuda Instrument lights not working | For A Bodies Only Mopar Forum

Here is the link to Harrison's How-To Wiper article: Rebuilding a 2 speed wiper motor (69 Barracuda)

I bought one of these replacement tach boards from RTE engineering. I installed it myself and it works great. I probably did it ten years ago, so I don’t have any recent experience with their products. RTE 67-74 Tach kit - rte

@harrisonm

Steve, no I don’t have those drawings they are not in the 1974 service manual

Steve, the pics I sent are from my 1974 service manual.

If you see the voltage limiter in the upper right, follow it out to the left and down through the bulb, through junction CE2 (the bulkhead) and down to the brake switch.

That circuit is a little different as it should be getting 12v through the fuse (which you have verified is good) and it’s grounded when the brake light switch moves off center inside the proportioning valve. My guess would be the 12v comes from the circuit board behind the instrument panel...

From my 1974 service manual, it looks like that is cavity M with a 20ga black wire. Shows as the brake warning lamp wire. Fused from cavity six in the fuse block with a 3 amp fuse.

Jim I don’t have a diagram of the fuse box but I do have this page right out of the 1974 service manual showing the circuits in each cavity and fuse amp rating.

I had that same grounding problem with my front parking/blinker lights on my 71 Barracuda. I wound up running a jumper wire to a good ground on the radiator support, stripped about 1/2 inch of insulation off the other end and used a small screw-type hose clamp to hold it to the bulb housing.

I might be tempted to use my little cutoff wheel and remove all six of those tabs. Then use a couple of small self-tapping screws through the holes in the ends of the lens to reattach it.

If you need the packard inserts as well as the plastic connectors they clip into, I’d be tempted to search the for sale ads and look for a used wiring harness.

If you have a cruise control button on the turn signal stalk, then someone added it on. I believe I read on this website cruise control did not come on A bodies until 1975.

Scroll all the way to the bottom of this page: Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply I have purchased these turn signal switches and they are of excellent quality. I highly recommend them!

Make sure your new temp sending unit is for the gauge and not the idiot light.

If you need to replace the turn signal switch, I would recommend purchasing a replacement from Slant Six Dan. They cost a little more than the Chinese ones sold by most vendors but you’re paying for quality and a lifetime of trouble free service. They are listed at the bottom of this page...

I thought the RTE IVR was built to electronically mimic the old off/on switching of the mechanical limiter. Your new fuel gauge may be looking for a smooth DC wave from a truly electronic voltage limiter.

The knob unscrews. Hold the shaft with a pair of needle nose pliers and it should come off.

Yes, there should be a rather large gauge wire connected to the alternator output terminal. That is why you’re charging the battery with a trickle charger, the alternator cannot charge the battery if it’s not connected.

Here is ABodyjoe’s post: How To Install an Ignition Switch in 1970 Dodge Dart

I second Moparofficial, make sure you have the sending unit for the gauge and not the idiot light.

I had this problem on my 1967 Barracuda, the fuel gauge worked but the temp did not. After a LOT of testing and head scratching I discovered the PO had installed the temp sender for the idiot light. I got an old sender from a friend off a parts car that had a gauge and it worked perfectly!

Try this place: MOPAR Products

I think there is a delay relay for the ignition (key) light. If you have replaced the bulb and it still does not light, you might check to see if the relay is there.

The fuel sending unit is part of the circular plug connector, in the photo above I believe it would be in the 12 o'clock position.