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Ok , so i youtubed checking grounds and everything i checked , tested good . I had however suspected the eyelet where the grounds connect to the rad support . Even though it tested good . So , i went ahead and cut it off anyway . i just did a quick stripping of the wires , and just put the bare...

I finally got to the lamps and sockets . With lamps loose , but attached , all three terminals on both headlights had power at the same time . They all lit up with the test light . After unplugging both lamps , the "3rd wire" at the dimmer switch went cold . With both lamps unplugged and...

I don't now what this means either . With the car running , headlight switch OFF , and either turn signal on . The outside front and rear turn signals light and blink as they should . However , all four side marker lights , both fender mounted turn signals , and both signals and high beam...

I am confusing myself here . All 3 dimmer switch terminals have power to them at the same time . I thought that they should only have power to two at a time . Does that condition point toward anything ? All 3 terminals also had power with the dimmer switch removed . I did try a new dimmer switch...

With the light switch on , i felt around the places mentioned above and more . most were not hot . The only place that felt hot was at the headlight connector , behind and attached to the headlight . some heat there . drivers side . i could not get my hand behind the other one to check that .

I put in a used swap meet alternator . It seems to be charging normally right now . At first , it was still overcharging . After twisting the wire connections , below the steering column , during a test , it went to charging normally . I will chase that later . For now , i want to fix chase...

Thanks , I will pick up some dielectric grease . This car did not come with a engine to firewall ground strap . I went to the MC bolt because i wanted it on a solid firewall bolt , and i didn't want to drill any new holes .

I don't understand either , this is all new to me . I am really lost . Thank you for your help . The alternator is a remanufactured REMY unit , I recently got from rockauto . It's supposed to be a direct replacement . Pictures below . This thing is charging with the VR disconnected too ...

Yes , i am using the 70/ later VR with the two prong triangle connector . I think i am doing this right . With both field terminals disconnected . With the meter set to the 200 range in ohms , it read 54.3 with one probe on the lower field terminal blade ( where the blue wire goes ) and the...

Thank you . I already installed the ground strap before getting your message , but did not scrape the paint away . There was some rust where it mounts on one side . I sanded it a little bit . I will do it over soon and try to get to some more bare metal there . I think it is grounded though . as...

I want to make sure that the Voltage Regulator is grounded . I just added a flat braided ground strap from the back of the engine block to one of the master cylinder bolts . i was going to add another ground strap from the VR to another one of the master cylinder bolts ? Would that cause any...

Sorry everyone . I apologize . I wrote that mess after three full days in the hot sun . I was not thinking clearly , and I was in a rush .

not sure at this point if its more than one problem but this is so far : 1972 dart 318 auto daily driver , mostly stock or close to it . in january , there was rotor punch-through . items that were replaced around that time that i can remember were : cap , rotor , points , coil , wires , plugs...

oh , ok , so they are not attached there in the photo . it looked like they were bolted to the trans at the top , they are just covered in crud and look that way . that then goes down along the trans then up over to the switch on the other side . ok thanks .

i am trying to track down a possible grounding issue . automatic , everything is stock . the car does not have a firewall to block/head ground strap . but what is this that looks like it is attached to the trans housing ? rear almost center of the firewall , right below the coil . near the dist...

yes , running really good . replacing the rotor got it running . the rotor had punch through , i just found out from 67dart273 what that is and what to look for . i didn't see it until really closely examining exactly where to look . i still have to fine tune the timing . and trying to figure...

the timing showed just a hair or two after 0 . cold engine at idle ( not fast idle ) . timing is a little bit off from where it was , i just can't remember exactly where i set it previously . wrote it down somewhere , probably can't find that . but i can adjust the timing again . i wrote still...

i saw that , i just was not sure what to look for . but YES , i think there is what you describe " punch through " what is that from ? what causes that ? i replaced it , but want to know the cause , so maybe i can help prevent that from happening again . thanks

i kinda still don't believe this , but the "new" 3 to 4 months old rotor on the right , the blue one . pictured here with the centers of both measured and lined up side by side with the old white one ( from some years ago ) , the white one's tip is a at least full 1/16th longer . i hope they...

points checked ( post #55 ) and are fine . engine still in time and not jumped , as below with good coil hotwired , and swapped out condenser with and old one still did not start . dwell then checked and reset to its happy place at 34 . no start . rechecked spark with tester . sparking good...

whoops , yes i meant firewall wire to positive post on coil . been a long day . mine looks brown , what does that do ? is it related to the ballast ?

further update . today i tested the coil disconnected from everything , out of the car . both primary "sides" ( post to post ) they read 4.3 ohms in the 200 position of the multimeter . the secondary ( post to center tower ) read 8.25 with the multimeter in the 20k position . since a manual and...

i have not done that one just yet , but i just now i , i just did the other test you described . Turn the crank until the points are open. Near ground your coil-wire, .25inch should be good. Find a small screwdriver with a small shank on it. remove the rotor. Turn the key to run. Now short the...

good question , not sure ill check another time , working outside and done for today , but i have been cranking it for days now and it probably isn't good at this point . it was good before this though .

ok i did try to start it that way earlier , with a remote starter switch , no start . i will try the spark test again this way , another day . yes i tested coil wire ... it is getting spark ........ next tested resistance of the coil to cap wire , but could not get a steady reading . it would...

these from earlier today and really early today

yes did try jumper to coil , same result , no start . rotor / cap look good to me , i didn't check the underside of the rotors shaft yet .

it was hard to see from where i was . described it a bit in above posts on page one , but it looked good from where i was , pretty sure it was blue and i had the adjustable tester at about 3/8" . also got spark out of the coil wire too , everything from today i posted above , well , on the...

hi , thanks . its not it just looks that way in the picture , its curved there and it works in the other car .