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Bolt the tire back on the axle without the drum, it will give you more leverage to turn when trying to seat into the splines.

When I say drilling bolt holes I meant in lower ball joint, it's the least expensive part to replace. I don't think it would take 1/4 in. I just used that as a reference. I'm sure we have an expert here that can figure that out to gain a few degrees.

When you change or adjust the upper control arm all you are doing is moving the spindle to the specs you want so if you can move the lower portion of the spindle forward would that not help with more caster?

All good info, just to throw this out there, do a 180 and look at the lower ball joint if the holes to bolt to the spindle were drilled in a different location causing the lower portion of the spindle forward say 1/4-inch wont that help with positive caster, maybe someone can make this happen...

Test a 1/8 or 1/4 spacer and see if it works.

If you can weld, many things are possible, looks like if you convert to floor shifter it looks easier.

I would replace it because it's a lot of work if it's a problem.

When I added BBP disks from a 73+ a body to my 65 Barracuda back in the day as soon as I went for a road test, I remembered the article I read a few years earlier you need to trim the turn stop nub on the lower control arm ball joint 3/8 or it won't turn very well, so I measured the old parts...

Thats correct the box was made in USA not the part.

If I remember correctly the instructions say to help fix camber. So, if you want to help caster, you don't follow the instructions.

Can you duplicate the noise with someone pushing down and up on one side at a time when you're sitting in car with foot on the brakes?

It's one of the jobs you get to do laying down, I always save large pieces of cardboard to lay on, so you don't have to feel all the pebbles or cold concrete on you back. Bonus points keeps the oil off the My driveway. (Sorry MOM, I learned from my younger mistakes)

I have always used a small flat screwdriver and tapped on outer edge of seal and into the metal of the seal then just pry it out. I've heard others use a few screws into the metal of the seat then use pliers to pry it out.

Steering box bolts tight but not correct torque causing box to shift when under stress. Now the fun begins fixing the problem with everything is in the way.

steering box is loose and shifting position, possible bolts are bottoming out and not holding box to frame tight or not torqued to spec

No. 74 has a larger bearing and the axle tube gets larger at the axle bearing end, also uses the same backing plate as 8 1/4 , 8 3/4 & dana. just use the complete rear end or upgrade

Check U-Joints for wear or not seated when installed. also pinion angle, loose U-bolts, anything that can cause a shift when under torque load. possible your trans mount loose or shifting out of position.

I need 4 bolts & nuts for 73-76 a body disc brake, lower ball joint to spindle. new or used with good threads. working on son's duster replacing front end parts and found threads worn. anybody have extra set to sell. Thanks Ed.