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Depending on the rockers, one turn may only be .010-.020" and you can safely run preload up to .050+. So you might want to experiment with that while you're playing around with it.

Gotcha - I got my brands crossed...lol. Same basic idea tho: the standard recommended lifters for most are not anti-pump up design. The Pro Magnums are the anti-pump up that would be recommended for a larger and/or faster rate of lift Comp. With them you need the adjustable rockers but they...

There are 2 lifters Crane currently offers - one is the high rpm type, one is a variable duration type. What camshaft do you have? Do you have the part number of what you have? The "Hi Energy" line of cams should have the anti-pump up already so changing to Comps really isn't a change other than...

Cool. I always thought the code was unbreakable and those tuners didn't do much. Admittedly it's not really my forte... I haven't had to work with them in 15 years but bcak then it was damn near impossible. Are there certain calibration windows in which changes can be made?

You made note of the Crosswind somewhere before - I can't recall if it was this thread or elsewhere but I remember you commented about the Crosswind and Air gap being close to equal. I've only used one that was not equal in performance (economy and "butt dyno" power suffered) and will avoid them...

With the EQ heads availability I'm mostly looking at this thread as an indicator of contrasting financials between reusing factory or buying those. I like the idea of tracking the improvements and reusing what one has I'm just not certain about the economics of it.

That's cool - are you trying to break into the PCM coding or just looking to document changes to physical parts? I think it is down a bit more when you consider it's not running any accessories or the water pump. Probably closer to 30hp less if it was run with a true "net" testing type accessory...

I've always maintained the biggest issue with magnums is that pinch. So from what I can see (excluding the various retests) you've got about 20 minutes of grinding once you know where to touch. Correct?

I wish we had your Hemi 6... Nice build IQ. I'm guessing he didn't do much to those heads and that cam's fairly conservative.

If the cam's not that big like Fishy said - it might last for a little while. Otherwise - don't plan for a long and healthy life.

Same way Chevys have oiled for decades and magnums continue to do: Splash. Oil comes up the pushrod, out the hole in the top of the rocker, runs down to the shaft - fills the rocker and runs down to the valve tip.

You're swapping from a system that hits the shafts with pressurized oil for about 10° of 360° degrees of cam rotation to a metered flow of oil for 360° of rotation. Personally - I'd do everything I could not to have to run LA heads on a Magnum short - but if a customer told that's what they want...

Run hollow pusrods and AMC lifters.

It's not easy and I've never heard of it being done. The hourly labor to set up and drill that particular hole is going to be 1/2 the cost of the EQs and then you can bolt on a worse flowing set of LA heads... It's small diameter, 6" long, on 3 axis, and the target is a 3/16" hole in located in...

First - to clarify - I have submitted to a magazine before. For all I know it got tossed within seconds because they sure never called me but there's not much call for rearview mirror repair articals...lol. Also - I can and do blow up skirts - but not a car magazine's :D The EQs are shipped...

They are probably fine - but you'll ahve to convince the buyer of that. Get them pressure tested and have that handy for the buyer. It's common to have them crack, and no - it isn't fatal. The EQs are very different from the RHS heads. The EQs are basically stock Magnum design, with stock Magnum...

x2

Yeah - they almost all have cracks. But they do not all get anywhere close to water. The way to properly test these heads is not to magnuflux - but to pressure test. Personally for me - I look for a running engine. I want to listen to it run, see it not smoke, hear it have good oil pressure and...

Gotcha...

What is the shortblock again? I'm surprised it has that much crankcase pressure.

Magnums with factory heads use a shared pedestal. They shouldn't ever "loosen up". But - things wear. The cam might not have, but I can tell you the lifters wear internally (the plungers and the bore they ride in), the lifter bores wear, pushrods and the contact points wear, and the valve stem...

Chances are it's a lifter getting tired. Not a big deal but 25K of hard miles will wear them faster. You can try a longer pushrod to get more preload but IMo it's more like you need to replace the bad one(s). Which is hard because you don't know which ones are bad on that side. If you're...

I think if it were me I'd leave the 5.9 alone for now. It's not a bad towing setup as-is unless you got a truck with 3.54s in it. In which case - i hope iot's flat where you're going...lol. Just seems like a lot of effort for a temperary thing. The trans, assuming it's in good shape now, would...

Option 2 will make better (more usable) power than the 318 for a lot less $$. Use the trans you have. Replace the oil pan & pickup, timing cover, and intake - add a fuel pump eccentric, and the distributor, plus the 5.9L Magnum flex plate and the Magnum truck manifolds and go have fun.

Not on a Magnum engine. They use hydraulic rollers. The factory ones have a paint mark on them to note which "side is up". Aftermarket ones, or most used ones there is no outward mark except for the hole itself. If the cam and lifters were changed and replaced with a flat tappet I apologize -...

You also want to make sure the little hole in the lifter points up (towards the valley) as they can be installed 180° out and that may cause lifter filling issues and noise.

Because it's a stick car, it's going to be much more sensitive to problems because the convertor isn't helping take the "edge" off any tuning issues. IMO, the 650HP is too much for the current combination. Maybe a little more gear would help it, but my impression is with the clutch engaged...

What is the vacuum level at idle, in gear? Have you done a basic compression test? Also if you can be much more specific on the circumstances of the studder... Like was asked - accelerating lightly? aggressively? Does it get worse with light/part/full throttle?