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I’ve always liked Comp for value, quality, and good lobe catalogs. That being said I’d suggest you start a relationship with whomever will be porting the heads and have them spec you a cam too. They may have a favorite, or proven combo, and/or have better access to them. Cam cores are hard to...

Yeah- then have the heads ported, the lifter bores bushed, and run a solid roller around [email protected] and close to .600 lift and you’ll be fine.

Then thinking about the heads isn’t really helping. Ported RPMs (as Pittsburg said) will get you there - provided the cam is able to take advantage of the port. W2s/W5s/Indys also ported, will work too. W2 stuff is all unique so you have to buy head assemblies, rockers, intake, and headers to...

What size camshaft?

You can do that with any of them. But, you are rolling the dice that they will work as advertised. If you’re spending $1000+ just for the heads To get the benefits, another $3-400 to have them checked and corrected will ensure you get them. You don’t have to. But there’s risk taken on with not...

You have to turn the crank while running the oil pump during priming. Each side only has a few crankshaft degrees where oil will pass up to each shaft. No turn the crank, very little chance the rockers will get oil.

If you need examples do more research. Your on the right track but there’s a lot more to it. My take on you post was that there is no downside to an intake valve back cut and you did not note any of the possible other issues in your initial post. My point was to note the potential down side...

Darin’s right but you have to remember the glow goes both ways, especially at low (relative) engine speeds. So reversion can become an issue if the cylinder pressure is still high when the intake valve opens during overlap. The cylinder needs intake charge. Not something diluted with residual...

The bone stock factory 5.9l Magnum swapped to a 4bbl and headers was the actual MP 300hp crate engine. Get one of those and bolt it in. Tuning is the key to mileage and in my opinion very few can do it well anymore so maybe a self learning efi for it would help.

The 300hp version was a factory Magnum longblock including the cam. I bought a test mule from MP years ago that was a 300hp short block with W2s, a modified factory iron 4bbl, and a 2bbl adaptor…lol. They said the 300hp versions were literally pulled from the production inventory. The 380 was a...

Thanks. I wanted a break.

Yup yup. The cams intake lift is around .540 at the valve, and it’s not there for long. If the heads are closer to 260cfm @.550, then the 460 number is close. Also shows why the torque curve is what it is. More cam would help if you wanted more hp. As would a larger volume intake manifold.

So the parts were balanced and numbered, and you decided to explore, and now it's all **** work? No offense but step one should have been asking the machinist (with visual aids) to explain what he did for you. Nothing looks wrong to me in the work. Everything looks wrong in your approach to...

Heads were never a matched set. They came from a bin, and got put on the short block. At taht point maybe one could sya they were a "matched set" but only because they were on the same engine...lol.

Ahh - potentially an answer to a question nobody needs to ask. lol

AARs are simply not that hard to find. So odds are it's around. I've seen AARs made into drag cars with cages and big blocks and OEM drivelines long gone. A car that was club raced (road racing) chances are the OEM engine would have been pulled, and this one was rebuilt so it could have been...

I use the aftermarket ones. But honestly there's no way it's going to come lose after butchering if that's the way you want to do it. It might wear the crap out of the shaft or bushing, ultimately losing timing accuracy, but it won't spin in the block. Maybe in the old English gear boxes. No way...

Probably over thinking.

Whatever someone will pay.

Keep it together and find the guy with the car... Odds are pretty good it's around somewhere. I'd sell everything together. Your car isn't anything special and you can finance a good build, including a new set of carbs and intake, with the proceeds.

You don't mention the rest of the combinations... But just from the hip - yes, you're overthinking it.

Thank you!

Did I answer? Sorry but FB for me is a challenge on a bunch of levels...lol.

It looked like the measuring didn't go well...lol. Anyway I don't think you will be disappointed running it as is. Freshen and fix, and build the B wedge.

What happened on 8? They don't look that bad to me. But you have to realize the power level will take a hit from worn bores and ring lands too.

Still a little high for my tastes, although admittedly those have changed over time. I think the best (highest value) path is just leave the bores as long as they are round and straight.

Hope it's a race fuel engine with those ratios. Honestly I'd probably leave it. it's already marginal for what I'd like to see on three cylinders for that level. So you can spend more money, waste more time, or just ignore the minor scratches and move on.

3.58 or 4" stroke?

What's your power goal?

How bad are the scratches? What's the power goal for it?