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It stays put and it’s basically graphite. It also doesn’t squeak. Ever.

I use anti seize.

Thanks Pete. I'll consider it if/when I get to really need it, but I'd rather have an OEM fitting if possible.

Thanks 67! I wonder if this thing has C body tie rods as part of a suspension upgrade. The tie rods don't go into the centerlink or ball joints. These parts are all new but the studs are way bigger than the tapers.

I have a car that I need to fix and I'm not sure if I'm right on the amswer... So please let me know the real poop... I have a 1968 steering setup that uses tie rods with the smaller diameter stud. Centerlink and ball joints have that corresponding smaller hole/taper. I "think" that 1973...

Yes. The kits that you get that use the Mustang hydrboost use the factory Mopar pump, with a mod IIRC in regard to the hose fittings in the pump.

I was going to say Pete IS the XV tech in New York as far as I'm aware...lol.

ok, I'm not one normally to open up the floor to everyone.. But... I am working on a Demon. Primarilly a street/drag race car. W5 headed 408 or 422, manual trans. I have a few options for suspension. I can do 8 3/4 braced, with std or relocated springs, the same 8 3/4 with a splayed 4 link and...

The degree of change is controlled by the shim thicknes. SO a 2° change is still 2°. But, the change in say snubber distance to floor can be dramatic. There, 2° shims may lower the snubber 3/4".

US Car Tool..I quoted the name wrong in another thread. It's US Car Tool. Very nice parts. I wouldnt even bother with the torque boxes, unles you have them already...lol.

Every Mopar made from unibody regardless of powertrains should get frame connectors...lol. There are real nice ones from US Car Tool (sorry I named it wrong before this edit...lol) down to the cheapest I know is Mancini Racing's MP bolt in set, that I buy and simply weld in place. They all work...

I get them at Car Quest..but they are more of a universal type thing. Teh ywork fine, just look different.

The snubber should be between 1/2-1" away from the floorpan..This should be set with 1/2 tank of fuel, and the driver (or similar weight) sitting in the driver's position, with the car oriented as it would be drivng..So, you jack it, it need all 4 wheels off the ground, with the stands on the...

It's not hard, but to make things easy, buy new rear shaklesw/bushings, and new U bolts at the same time. Then you can just cut the old ones off(u bolts), unbolt the front hanger bolts, onbolt the rear shakles, and heat the studs with a propane torch..They will slide right out. with minimum...