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Holleys are just easier. Not better. Because some guys can't tune them well enough, or easilly enough, Thermoquads are known as problem children. From the sound of it the carb's not set properly. Check float level, make sure the wells and well seals are intact, and set the choke per factory...

Mine I run out of fuel, and put in a Ziplock freezer bag to keep critters out. Then they go on a shelf in the garage. If there is no temperature control, they should be hit with WD40 or spray silicone and I'd put the plastic bag in at least one box, if not a box in a plastic tote.

Have you tried a diagnostic pressure gage? Disconnect the lines from the carb and run them into a bucket. Run the pump and check the pressure with a good gage (or known good gage). Then set the regulator to what you want. Also if it's on the engine, move ther egulator to the bodywork. Sometimes...

It's a parts mismatch. The cam's too big, and the carb is WAY too big. Event he Comp catalog says a minimum of 9.5:1 and you're below that. On the carb - Compared apples to apples with an older carb you have more than 880cfm with that carb. The dyno shows it's a pig - no offesnse but 390/390 out...

If it was purpose built it may take more than jets and power valves. But - it's not a problem so long as you can do it.

Fishy - have you ever tried to jet up when it's doing this? The fuel mix could be going lean and causing detonation - which loses combustion control and releases oxygen in the exhaust and shows it as lean. Just curious...

You need to diagnose the circuit. Like was said - power flows from the positive side of the battery, through the wiring to the switch, to the pump, and back from the pump through the chassis to the battery negative side. A simple volt/ohm meter is best, but a 12V test light will also work for...

The SD is a good intake for a modified engine. If there's nothing else done to it, the Performer 340/360 would be a better choice. The Air Gap is also better for a modified engine and I'd rather use the smaller Performer on a stock one.

The regulator design will determine if that diagram is useful. If it's an EFI regulator it's just fine providing the injectors, regulator, and return line are sized properly. The injectors are the real "open/closed" valves in an EFI. Just my opinion but in a carbureted system and running a pump...

What makes you think it's running out of fuel? What do you have for a fuel system now?

Yup.

Is this a Ram 50 (Misubishi engine w/carb) or a D150, slant 6 with carb?

The MP distributors are good starting points, but I have yet to see one that was correct out of the box. In addition to the comments about the carb being too large, I think the advances need to be tweaked. IMO, I'd look at setting initial timing at 15°, and adjusting the stops to limit the...

I've heard of pull over, but never actually seen it on anything. That includes some Modified Tour circle track cars, motor plate drag cars of all makes, etc. The vast amjority of these cars have Holley products or various clones of them. If this was so prevalent I'd expect to see a lot more...

So, in terms of cars with isolating mounts (i.e. rubber, urethane, etc), this is not an issue... correct?

Sounds to me like you need basic tuning. That cam has a ton of overlap so you'll always have the fuel smell at idle and it has litle to do with the actual burn. For a base setup I'd say go with 38° total timing w/o the vacuum figured in. Initial 16°-18°. Centrifical should be "all in" around...

Ryan is one of the better shops, but I agree... There are others. I also believe especially in the higher performance jobs his numbers can be hard to duplicate which is always a red flag for me. I have seen enough issues with FBOs directions and setups that I wouldnt buy anything from him. I...

Have you done anything with the step up spring or rod hanger in the primaries? If it was lean there (not way lean, but lean) it will make the secondary lean much worse feeling. By adjusting the screw on the hanger you can time when the primary power enrichment comes in, or remove it almost...

I spoke to Sam at the Indy tent in Carlisle on Thursday before the crowds and crazies showed. He's a nice guy and took a few minutes to talk with me and unbox some. They run an 8mm valve stem size. I think that's why the no longer valves. But, you can buy them assembled or as castings. As...

I think the next step requires repeated lateral Gs in a commuter parking lot to make sure it doesnt punk out during repeated donuts. And a video would be cool too :D. Glad you found it.

I have a few thoughts.. A mechanical pump has very little in terms of "suck" to it. So IMO, start with basics. Is your tank or gas cap is vented properly? (easy tet is pull the fuel cap after it's been running a while. If you hear the hissing of air entering, it's not vented well enough...)...

I agree, you have more issue than just the carb shooter. What is the cylinder pressures for it? you dont know the timing curve. You have to know and get that set properly before you play with the carb. For a typical 4" engine with decent quench and closed chamber heads I will run 18° initial...

What does the 750 actually flow? What do you trap at rpm wise?

You always set timing first. And then the carb. Any change in timing will affect the carb settings. What did you do to the timing, and why?

Are you only worried because it looks bad, or because it is showing problems with cylinder to cylinder tuning? The reason it has the T quad flange but both patterns is because bolting the carb to it does little to hurt performance on it and means those of us who do like the Tquads dont need the...

The avenger is a much bigger carb than the Edelbrock. Like 100cfm bigger. With the sceondaries unable to open, it may still have issues with drawing fuel out of the boosters during transition. If you go slowly, will it rev? The better choice would be the 670 Avenger.

thats it...

It could be a lot. The fuel is designed to evaporate fast, and is leaner right out of the pump now, thecarbs are very open(vents are big), the starter may be sluggish. I dont think it's boiling the fuel away in 10 minutes. I'm more inclined to think it's a "state of tune" thing. Has it always...

The fact that it was rebuilt a while should be forgotten. It sounds like something got in it and died in there. Very possible a warped boody and/or meterring block too. If the right side mixture screw goes in all the way, does it die? I would remove the left side mix screw, and using that long...

The methods of tuning are different for Holleys and Edelbrocks, but the amount required will be the same. Nothing will be "right" out of the box, unless you're either lucky, or dont realize you're giving some power/economy up.