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It sounds like the cam's just too large for what you have. You based the choice on the want, not what they delivered. If it's a street car, I'd just leave the lower end and revise the cam choice. KBs are much lighter than the pistons you're likely to have if they sit that low in the block. So...

I like tubes.

You're fine with stock caps and studs. Make sure the mains are align honed with the new studs.

Depends on the power level and how you reach it. From what you describe, the ARP studs should be fine NA. If you are boosting it, Supercharger or N2O could benefit from Program caps (still 2 bolt) because the mains will flex. If it's turbocharged, you may be ok because the power is not as...

The issue, if you're using Source parts, is that the clearances will more than likely be all over the place. And THAT, is where things get messed up. Source parts are "good". They are not "great". Things like taper and journal size will vary journal to journal, and it's hard to plan and say "it...

Too Bad. Don was a great guy.

Your plan and answers are raising a few red flags with me. Not sure the 1/2 grooves are the way to go. Not a long stroke, not living at 6800rpm. You are not answering the clearances question and setting the pressure "after it's dyno'd" is just totally *** backward. If you are using a stroker...

The determination of the volume is a function of the clearances and rpm expected. What are yours?

Check to make sure the secondaries are not open a hair. There's a recessed screw you can reach with the carb off the engine. I've seen some that came to me after someone had cracked the secondaries open to help idle rather than fix the problem. There's no reason that crate engine should need a...

I don't recall the brand but his was brown like Pitsburgh's. It came out fairly easily too but took some time to set up.

One of my mentors started doing that about 20 years ago. Very helpful to go over details and "see" the big picture, in addition to getting the calculations needed to properly design the port. Awesome work Pitt!

I like to degree just to make sure it's accurate, but like he said - line up the dots (install straight up). On the balancing - you need to pay the shop to balance the assembly. If you retain the factory balancer you will need to give him the balancer, flex plate, bolts, and convertor to balance...

All I was going to say is I think the B3 kit is specific to the heads you measured the first time. So call Mike would be my response, but don't be surprised if you need a new shim package from him.

I've never found that to be the case when the valve job was done right. OP - I think the studs are for the two holes where the oil feeds the rocker shaft. Some bolts may limit flow to the rockers. Not sure why you'd get 3 of what look like rocker shims....

I always liked 516 heads. Much cheaper than 915s and totally capable for 90% of guys thinking about using them.

To OP: Put them on. You'll notice an improvement and be happy. The rest is overthinking. Edit - AJ - I avoid your posts due to length and amount of convolution....lol.

The pushrods should work - but as noted you need to check. If the cam is hydraulic, preload is important and aluminum heads expand more, so watch the preload and make sure it's good. Also use the Felpro Performace gaskets for the aluminum heads. Make sure the intake will fit properly too - if...

That will be hard because the dynos are all individually calibrated. When I was involved in a chassis dyno shop we used 18% for automatic, 15% for manual cars. IN most cases this was backed up by owner provided info but you never knew if the engine dyno was happy or sad... The places using...

^^ What he said.

It wasn't. Just a general statement.

I'm not sure it will even go to 4500 given the heads. Honestly just the wrong idea IMO. If you want a stroker build a 426 out of it. That will work decently and give you a little more snap.

There are two possibilities: The weights on the side are only for the convertor's balance... But they are huge if they're for that. Normally it's maybe a chunk of 1/16" thick steel. So it's either weights from a shop's lower end balance job or the 360 weight that normally goes on the flexplate...

Agreed. Look at the ignition.

The vacuum seems low for a 496 with a hydraulic roller and that static compression. What are the cam specs? It may be a volume-note-due-to-the-pump issue. The owner of the 496 I did has a much larger carb and automatic, it makes about 580hp, and it's being fed by a stock appearing Carter...

This was back in '89. I had a '74 Barracuda 318/3sp I swapped in a 340/4sp with a Cheater plate. Then I broke some ring lands when I ran out of gas in a bad spot and a nice lady let me take her old, low octane lawnmower gasoline. I had to drive out of a steep valley to reach a gas station... I...

GO for it. I did a stock 318 with 275 before. It didn't break it. Keep the timing back and make sure there's enough fuel pressure with the solenoid open (free flow test).

A chassis dyno will only give sort of usable numbers. Get the car on the track. Get it consistent. Then change the shift points by 500 rpm. If it goers faster, it could probably use deeper gears provided it pulls cleanly in high gear past the stripe. If it doesn;t change much, don't plan on...

Step one - verify the tire pressures are at the maximum recommended pressure. Step two - Get an alignment by a qualified shop. Step three - Properly tune the engine - timing and carburetor. Make sure you have a vacuum advance that functions too. You should be able to get mid teens easy, high...

Without knowing what it's doing now, it's impossible to guess. It's easy to put too much gear into a street car package and lead to more issues. My advice would be get some track time and work out the bugs. If you can get it consistent, try rasing the shift points by a few hundred rpm each run...

I think if you are interested in a good cruiser, you already made some mistakes both in the cam choice and the ignition changes. That's why the convertor doesn't feel like it's working right and I'd bet it's down on power from where you wanted it. Where are you in CT? Edit - I see you're in...