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If you don't need full quarters, don't replace the full quarter. The full AMD style are thicker and have better stampings, but that doesn't mean they are as good as the factory. So a skin will work too, just use what you need and understand that the mating areas will not be as good as the full...

10 footer and rattle cans using the OEM paint as a base? Don't sweat the dents. Just rough it up and spray.

I strip with 80 grit, then go over with a DA and 120. Metal repair gets done. Then it gets etching primer, and I bodywork over that before hitting it with high build and following with blocking. Edit - adding my agreement to warning on reading labels and being very familiar with the product...

As you block you don't want a lot of pressure into the panel. I shoot epoxy primer before any body working. Do the filler over it, then shoot high build over that and continue the blocking. I also do the body assembled and panels aligned. If you've ever looked down the side of a car and seen the...

The parts simply unbolt. It's ok to be nervous, but it's not a big deal to remove the fender and fix it right, then reattach and align carefully. Use tape on the edges if you are that concerned when you reassemble.

I have to believe it would assuming you could get full penetration. Which after these years of surface rust formation and the primer dipping process I doubt you can without taking the seams apart first. IMO it's best to just use frame connectors or the additional structural components available...

Neither of those are affective for downforce. They look cool, and they do redirect a small amount of air into the radiator, but there's no real added downforce from them. Potentially just the opposite as the underhood area becomes a high pressure area. So they don't have to be very substantial...

There's something to be said for giving yourself enough room to move. I cut back far enough from the rocker and cowl seams to allow my drill and spot weld cutter... Then centerpunch and drill th floor layer, grind, hit with weld-through primer, and fit the pan/patch. Sometimes trying to keep the...

Could someone post a clear pic of an operational hood hinge installed on a 70's A body? I jus took off the orginals from my Demon and I dont think they were right... It's like they have no tension. I seem to recall others being very stiff when they are in the "hood open" position. Thanks

I finally bought the one I kept borrowing when my friend upgraded to a larger unit. It's a nice little Miller I got for $400 with cart, tank, and spare wire. Does a real nice job.

That is cheaper. The last bottle of Perfect It was close to $30 for I think about 1/2 gallon. The tall bottle about 3.5" in diameter. At least it lasts a while.

3M Perfect It...works wonders...lol.

Well, I cant hit photobucket from here (work). I fixed them yesterday. But it took about 6 hours to get them both looking the way they are supposed to. Not perfect, but like yours Adam, not many I've seen are. I think i got them small enough now...Had to change the picture editing program...lol...

well, it's a customer's car. the skins were installed by them. (thier first attempt) So aside from some oil canning and "fixing" here and there..I thought things were amiss when I saw the way the lights fit. So I saw your pictures, and then went and measured a friends car. This one was 1/4"...

Thank you very much SG! That's exactly what I was looking for....And you just caused me to see a bunch more work I need to do...lol.

Can anyone post decent pics of a '67 to '69 Barracuda tail panel area? I'm looking for the spots where the tail lamp housings meet the 1/4 panels. A clear pic of both sides, taken from the rear would be a Godsend... Thanks Guys!