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Transmission you need (assuming you need one) is listed for sale in classifieds…

That was never a miscue. You're talking about an issue on an item that was designed 60 years ago, on a product that needed to last through at most a 5 year payment book. The concept was this car lasted well enough to have the buyer be happy, and come back for another model later. It succeeded...

Not a motor plate - I made mounts after modifying the K frame. You can see it's "down" and "back" from a factory placement, and a little to the passenger side to avoid the steering shaft. Pictured is a 440 with tall covers. I modified the passenger inner fender and shock mount, and I'm making...

Pretty sure the staples were for the top. Later cars rely on the adhesive, windshield gasket, and windshield trim to hold the front edge. I would just trim it so it is cut off at the flange where the window seal seats and make sure the adhesive it good quality (3M) and applied properly. That...

Looks good Joe!

Looking good!

Looks great Clay!

Leave the button auto (we're all getting older) and stick a 360 in it. You'll need a pricey convertor with the early stator and later hub but that's not a big deal. A stock ot similar 360 will exceed the 273 with bolt ons in terms of butt feel. Even with the factory 273 manifolds and single...

Busy. Work and family are keeping me from doing much car stuff. But I’m about 70% done with the ‘65s steel work. I’ve been sayin I want it in primer by the end of the month since April. Prob won’t be until August at this point.

Looking good Kid!

I hate fixing those areas. I blow the patch into prices in my head, and fab it up that way. It’s hard with lead or brass used on later cars to get the area good for welding too. But when it’s welded and dressed and all you need is a skim of fiberglass or All Metal it’s a good feeling.

I love it!

If you’re doing an early A there’s used, make your own, and Laysons. My ‘65 is getting some of all three. Retro parts are lower quality than the larger repro houses, but a good place to start from in terms of repairs.

If you haven't done it, getting stuck drums off can be challenging. It may help, if the parts are still intact, to use a brake spoon and small diameter screwdriver to back off the self adjuster inside the brake assembly. You access it through the oval hole(s) in the backing plate near the bottom...

lol..

Thanks Guys. I think I'm good now. In going back to the car, looks like this would be newly-discovered hit #5...lol. The metal was all a mess, hence it not looking like anything pictured. I managed to get some straightened out and matching the left side with templates. I need to fab up some...

Thanks - and the rear edge of the quarter panel?

Thanks Brian! Are the seams overlapped and then spot welded? Or it there a 90* flange on each panel, and the spot welds are along those flanges? Looks like overlapped... is that the factory steel?

Thanks Brian - It helps, but blowing it up so I can see the areas make it blurry. I appreciate it. Hoping I can find clear close ups of those corners.

On the 64-65 Barracudas- I’m looking for a couple of clear close ups of the areas where the quarter panel and rear bumper filler panels join, from just below the tail light cutout to the lowest edge. Preferably before the sealer or painting so I can clearly see the joints and how they did them...

IIRC I ordered them from Summit and they were not found "by application".

There is no way to verify "numbers matching" as was said. You can only verify that it was supposed to have what's there (data tag) and the dates on various parts that would be acceptable for a car built when that one was. Any mods can be done. As an early A some thing s cost a bit more because...

Best way IMO...

Were there any? I didn't think so aside from the D-Darts. I just added leaves to mine.

I honestly love the way it sounds...lol.

Thank God...

If it's a service replacement, I see it going "up". But if you're doing a car and assembling, out the bottom is THE way to do it. I did it out the top for 30 years. I've been taking them out and in from the bottom for the last couple years. Way easier to set things up, way less risk of damage to...

I was going to reassemble and sell my ‘65. But the GF and her kids liked it and said they wanted me to keep it. So I’m now working on it to keep. I thought it was a cool car but not quick or “fun”. So I’m fixing that.

In looking at my '65, I'd think the front end would be easier to move out. Move the Kframe bosses or just weld in new buts inside the frame, and extend the steering column. The rear has a lot of structure on it, so keeping it all square would be a trial. Lots of measuring and re-measuring as you...

I was going to say I'm by no means and expert on 273s but I know of no "big valve" versions.