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It's the best you can get. Only you can decide if the expense is providing value to you.

ec_ - me too...lol. swiss - sent you a PM.

You've got more experience with them than I do Charlie. But every one I've had a hand in tuning loved the curve and setup listed. That is only a few over the years however.

That's all tuning. You need to bring the inital timing up to 18*. Increase the centrifugal to give a total of 38*, and get the lightweight spring to get the advance moving earlier. Then slow the idle speed down to 6-700 using the idle speed screw. Then reset ti idle mixture screws to the best...

There could be a dozen reasons why it's not running right. So don't feel bad. Just start with the basics: 1. Do a simple compression test with the engine warm, all plugs out, and the throttle blocked wide open. Post the results. 2. Check the timing setup. either use a timing tape if your light...

I've got a 225 for sale now, and could do a rebuild on it. Long way to ship though. They are not light...lol.

Nor port to fill it...lol.

He can correct me if I'm wrong, but I read this post as Tony is talking about flame propagation and the effect on the position of the crank at peak pressure. He wants to change the parts to adjust the timing (angle) to better suit the low rpm. That's not cylinder filling. What I'm tossing in...

Tony - I think the engineering is sound - but the issue will always be the head arrangement and lack of potential. What you propose, at least in my head at 10pm on a Sunday, will simply put you in the "not enough port" zone earlier. It might hit harder, yes. But it won't run out as far. If I...

I traded a running 360 for one, but it is low mileage and has a 4bbl intake and carb on it and at the time I had a plan for it. In terms of "buying" one - scrap prices with a max of $50 would be it. Everyone says keep them, few actually want them, and nobody wants to pay.

Thanks Abody. Unfortunately I do pretty much all V8 stuff and that's what most of my inventory is. Bigus - I have a complete and was running 225 4bbl, but no parts. I don't know of any redone heads but keep an eye on CL and they'll show up from time to time.

If it clanks when the starter turns it over, and it didn;t do that previously, I'd say you have a big problem. With slant sixes being very reasonable and common, I'd plan to replace what you have. Molly's limping heavy...

Something's not right. A 496 I built two years ago gets 15 in the highway... Check tire pressure, alignment (by a guy that knows torsion bar front ends), timing curve and vacuum advance. I also tighten the valve lash a few thousanths.

You can;t go too wrong by running a little too much lash. You can go wrong by not running enough. I like .010 and .010 on the stock cam solid tappet slants but I would probably use .015/.015 as a "first start" setting. Once the cam's been broken in and it's been heat cycled a few times, then...

His other Gremlin is the one I did the paint and body on... It's a 360, mild cam and 175hp N2O plate, AMC auto trans, and Ford 3.73 8.8 rear with 4 wheel discs. Without the bottle the tires are useless...lol. Hasn;t racer it at the track yet, no tried sticky tires and as it is it's a handful.

My buddy did that whole 4.0L/auto swap into his Gremlin. Cool deal really. Pretty straight forward too. He used the Jeep's gages and floor shifter too. I have no idea how it might go into an A body, but I know they had at one point a 360 mopar in a gremlin too... So I think the oil pan designs...

I just stripped the 170 from my '65. The longblock is siting outside waiting for the scrap run. I couldn't even give it away. It ran ok but has a lot of miles and I have a 225 for the car...

Did you remove any of the plug or pickup wires to change the fuel pump?

Looks cool. But my cars only have "semi-educted driver" lights. :D

The best thing I can tell you is you don;t have enough for a rebuild - but you should have enough for a re-ring deal. Invest in a vernier caliper, a set of micrometers, and a dial bore gage and carefully inspect and check things out per the service manual. Buy the parts you need to replace worn...

I watched the episodes. A few notes - that was a bone stock rebuild with a cam and valve springs. They could have used their own "tricks" and had the head milled, used a thinner MLS gasket, done performance work on the head, etc, but they didn't. They did only RWP - they couldn't mate the slant...

I'd second BGR (Bob George Racing).

That's wicked cool...

Any smoothing you do will give some results. Whther or not it's enough when combined with other mods to make a feelable difference is anyone's guess. But - you won't hurt anything by leaving a larger hole there. It does add a small amount of volume to the port itself, but like Kid mentioned -...

I dunno. I love the idea of a powerful slant 6. But for the sake of discussion and with no intention of beating up the owner - I think MEW took the wrong approach in terms of the whole package. There are some improvements to be made going lighter - but it's free to hack off and knife edge a...

yup. At least the guy stood by it and it's fixed.

All I hear is Mator when I look at that truck... Cool beastie...

Mistakes happen. Have him come listen to it and tell you what he want's to do. I don;t think $4K is unreasonable depending on what was used and what was done. You just need it to do what you paid him to make it do.

Awesome. I love that Offy cover too...

(in a mom's type voice) They're All special!