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Agreed. .890 would be a big block bar. No big blocks in 64-66. Even a 1968 340-S would be a .870. That said, I put .890s on my 67 273 Commando car. I think going one step up is a no-brainer for any street car — they were all kind of soft from the factory. As noted, many people go much bigger...

Sway bars don't affect the ride unless you hit a pothole with one wheel. In other words, they only come into play when one side is loaded different than the other side — that's how they prevent body roll. But if you, say, hit a full lane speed bump straight on, they have no affect on the spring...

1.08? Definitely won't bottom out, might be a little stiff for cruising... I personally like some suspension compliance — I rely on sway bars to control roll.

For comparison... Barracuda fastback with 273, .890 torsion bars, Bilstein shocks,lowered about 5/8" in front. I sawed 1/4" off the LCA stop. Does not generally hit the bump stops. Freeways here have 5" deep potholes, and I also run some sketchy back roads on occasion.

I installed a Borgeson in my 'vert. It was great. Firm and precise, with a quick ratio. Really, it's a better setup for windy roads than my fastback with manual steering, which, while precise, is dog slow.

I can attest, however, that a new 11/16" drill bit cuts through those poly bushings like butter...

Thanks for confirming that! I will contact PST and see if I can convince them to change their listing.

I wonder where the 5/8" stud size came from. It wouldn't be any 63-up A-body, or B or C for that matter. It might be for a 1st gen Valiant... don't know, never had one.

Huh... there was a 62 Dart, but there sure wasn't a '62 Demon or Swinger. Now I want to see the collapsed height and extension for THAT number.

Hmm, when I ordered Bilstein shocks for my 1967 Barracuda from PST, they supplied 55-R093 for the rear. I don't know what the difference is supposed to be, but the upper bushings on the ones I received had 5/8" diameter holes — the studs are 11/16". I had to drill out the shock bushings.

Oh yeah, I wasn't paying attention that it's a 74...

All you need is a heavy (like, 1/4" thick) right angle bracket to mount on the shock bolt. The proper length of the end links is whatever makes the arms of the bar parallel to the ground. If you use threaded rod you can adjust them to whatever length is needed by turning the nuts.

My recollection is that the disc brake steering knuckle takes one size larger bolts for the lower ball joint. So I think it would work if you got the disc brake ball joints.

The Hellwig kit does not require welding. The tubular bar is also cool because it is much lighter than a solid bar. Hellwig's brackets that attach to the crossmember are much better designed than some, such as Addco for example. Recommended.

Hmm, I didn't notice anything like this with the Borgeson on my 67 Barracuda slant six. But I had already swapped out the old pump for a Saginaw unit. The Saginaw has quicker response than the Federal/TRW pump that was original in 67. The issue is it takes a different bracket, which you have to...

Hmmm, possibly. I didn't put the strut rods in until later. Though that was a bit of a pain — I can see why you are trying it this way. I would look at the sequence in the FSM procedure.

One clarification: NEVER install a rear sway bar if you don't have a front sway bar. I say this because the OP didn't specify, and his problem was with roll in the rear.

In the one-sided mount (i.e. 1967) any looseness is fatal.

I have also noticed that the idler arms have too much vertical play unless you add extra washers.

Exactly — a split boot secured with band clamps would at least help keep the grease in place and the road salt out.

You can't expect to see instant height changes when turning the adjusting screw. And measuring from the ground to the body is not how you measure ride height. Read the Factory Service Manual for a description of how to measure ride height, and how to adjust it properly. At the very least, you...

The first thing you want to correct lean is an anti-sway bar. T-bars and shocks are NOT primarily about lean. Shocks control rebound and overall ride quality. Stiffer springs (t-bars are springs) give you a stiffer ride — this does reduce lean but it also affects ride quality, so it's a...

You have added so many adjustment points into the system that you might be better off taking it to a professional shop — and not just a local tire shop, which will complain "it's not in the computer" and then try to match the exact specs in the FSM (which are horrible for modern tires). You...

Dano has it, exactly. You want to move the control arm in the direction indicated by the arrows, but you need to look at the bushing offsets in context of the control arm in order to determine which bushings are oriented which way. I swear I had to check and double-check this 3 times to get it...

I used one from Flaming River. It had me drill a through hole for a bolt. I can't imagine set screws could possibly work — think of the torque that goes through the shaft with manual steering. Welding seems a little extreme, and you'd be heat-cycling that end of the shaft.

I believe Eastman also has a full kit. The idler arm is brutally expensive, though — I don't think it's included in kits.

But you don't have to run poly LCA bushings. In which case you don't need the aftermarket strut rods.

I figured he had taken the coupling apart on purpose, and now he was trying to put it back together...

What Jeff said. You have the two bolts on the engine compartment side, and three bolts in the footwell. Loosen them all plus the column nuts under the dash and it should straighten out with some finagling.

Yeah, the box ratio is the real solution. The "fast ratio" pitman arm was a boondoggle.