Rapid Robert
Well-Known Member
1973 dodge dart 318. it leans way over in turns. I feel every bump in the road. thank you for your time. RR
what dia t bars should I buy? & what shocks should I get?
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junkyardhero
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how much money do you have to spend?
Jeff Seighman
aka jeffnmo
If you got the bucks, 1.03 T-bars and Bilstein shocks.
Rapid Robert
Well-Known Member
I'll spend however much it takes to get to my desired comfort level. its not any fun to drive right now
junkyardhero
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1- define desired comfort level
2- what's the current status of the front end/rest of suspension? has anything been altered or rebuilt?
3- do you have a swaybar?
4- current wheel and tire package?
you can easily attain something that rides very similar to a modern sport coupe-- firm but not overbearing. or you can have something that handles like it's on rails but rides a little rough and can shake your fillings loose. or you can have something in the middle of either. comfort is a very subjective topic.
DAndy ART
dreams becoming reality
And a borgeson steering box.
The first thing you want to correct lean is an anti-sway bar. T-bars and shocks are NOT primarily about lean.
Shocks control rebound and overall ride quality.
Stiffer springs (t-bars are springs) give you a stiffer ride — this does reduce lean but it also affects ride quality, so it's a personal choice how far to go. An anti-sway bar reduces lean WITHOUT affecting ride quality (in most circumstances — exceptions include when you go over a speed bump with only one wheel).
In your case, I would proceed as follows:
1. Quality front sway bar kit — I like the Hellwig hollow bar, but there are other good ones. Addco is cheap but needs mods to work well.
2. Quality shocks – Bilstein and Koni are the best, but pricey. I find KYB is acceptable for a reasonable price.
See how you like that before upgrading t-bars, which is much more hassle. Chassis connectors and torque boxes may be a consideration after you have upgraded the entire suspension — chassis stiffness is irrelevant if the rest of the setup is a spaghetti noodle.
I should also point out that your ball joints, LCA and UCA bushings, strut rod bushings and tie rod ends should all be in good shape before you make any modifications. You could spend hundreds of dollars for no improvement if your front end is worn out.
If you have power steering I found the Borgeson steering box really improved feel, but it has nothing to do with body lean. Don't get distracted... focus on your issue.
Shocks control rebound and overall ride quality.
Stiffer springs (t-bars are springs) give you a stiffer ride — this does reduce lean but it also affects ride quality, so it's a personal choice how far to go. An anti-sway bar reduces lean WITHOUT affecting ride quality (in most circumstances — exceptions include when you go over a speed bump with only one wheel).
In your case, I would proceed as follows:
1. Quality front sway bar kit — I like the Hellwig hollow bar, but there are other good ones. Addco is cheap but needs mods to work well.
2. Quality shocks – Bilstein and Koni are the best, but pricey. I find KYB is acceptable for a reasonable price.
See how you like that before upgrading t-bars, which is much more hassle. Chassis connectors and torque boxes may be a consideration after you have upgraded the entire suspension — chassis stiffness is irrelevant if the rest of the setup is a spaghetti noodle.
I should also point out that your ball joints, LCA and UCA bushings, strut rod bushings and tie rod ends should all be in good shape before you make any modifications. You could spend hundreds of dollars for no improvement if your front end is worn out.
If you have power steering I found the Borgeson steering box really improved feel, but it has nothing to do with body lean. Don't get distracted... focus on your issue.
Rapid Robert
Well-Known Member
good comprehensive info, thanks guys much appreciated. RR
It sounds like the car is is either riding on the bump stops or has bad shocks.
Bad as in failed or too much high frequency damping.
The rst is what folks have posted.
Front sway bar for reduced roll and up the t-bars.
This assumes the rear springs aren't busted or shackles at some weird angle.
Then there's roller rim micro tire problem but can't imagine you did that.
But tires can make a big diffrence to ride.
Bad as in failed or too much high frequency damping.
The rst is what folks have posted.
Front sway bar for reduced roll and up the t-bars.
This assumes the rear springs aren't busted or shackles at some weird angle.
Then there's roller rim micro tire problem but can't imagine you did that.
But tires can make a big diffrence to ride.
Rapid Robert
Well-Known Member
I will check the bump stops & I will check the shackles as it is a bit low in the rear.
Ant
Well-Known Member
Evaluate your whole suspension system to see if the rest is in good condition. Bad bushings and shocks can make a car ride and handle like crap.
My dart has stock springs and no swaybar from the factory and rides just fine on 14 inch wheels.
Dave999
Well-Known Member
i'm a penny pincher did mine cheap spent all the money on balljoints and bushes 
and its perfectly adequate
KYB gas adjust and the bars out of a big block v8 A body
with the correct ride hight
mine came standard with a perfectly adequate sway bar and is an Australian car
60s B body width at the back
disk brake A body width at the front
8 inches shorter than a dart
so my gians my differ from yours if you did the same
but all i really did was make it work more like the day it came out of the factory.
i.e old worn out 318 bars replaced with old worn out 383 bars
probably landed me back at day 1 in a car with a motor that weighs about 3/4 of a 318
its a nice enough ride
and its perfectly adequate
KYB gas adjust and the bars out of a big block v8 A body
with the correct ride hight
mine came standard with a perfectly adequate sway bar and is an Australian car
60s B body width at the back
disk brake A body width at the front
8 inches shorter than a dart
so my gians my differ from yours if you did the same
but all i really did was make it work more like the day it came out of the factory.
i.e old worn out 318 bars replaced with old worn out 383 bars
probably landed me back at day 1 in a car with a motor that weighs about 3/4 of a 318
its a nice enough ride
72Duster440
Well-Known Member
That's what I run, it rides amazing, minimal roll in corners. I also have a Hellwig sway bar up front too.
Edit: Mines is very nose heavy with the big block too.
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
1" minium on the bars. and ya can't go wrong with a set of bilstein shocks
Rapid Robert
Well-Known Member
that's good advice to check all that has been mentioned. RR
MopaR&D
Nerd Member
I have 1.14" bars in my Duster and I'd say they're a bit much if the OP isn't trying to hit the track or do serious canyon-carving AND he'd need some wide low-profile performance tires in the front to take advantage of them anyway over smaller bars. IMO he's probably better off with 1.03-1.08" for something more street-oriented.
I second the 1.03" bars and Bilstein shocks along with sway bars.
Rapid Robert
Well-Known Member
OK I will stay with 1.03, thank you. RR
Go do a full coil spring conversion.
KIDDING!!
This is my setup exactly...I have to report that it rides hard and still doesn't feel that great. If I had to do it over again, I might go for a smaller torsion bar.
KIDDING!!
This is my setup exactly...I have to report that it rides hard and still doesn't feel that great. If I had to do it over again, I might go for a smaller torsion bar.
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