Search results for query: *

Well, I would think it would be the ones the FACTORY put a big block into... 67-69 Barracuda and Dart. Although I expect all the 67-and-up engine compartments would be basically the same.

It looks like your aftermarket radiator has the hose nipple too far outboard; but then, I don't precisely know where the factory BB radiator nipple is for comparison. But I used to have an A-body 383 radiator in my SB Barracuda, and the hose definitely did not rub the strut rod. It DID rub the...

There is probably some truth to this, but on the other hand, there are times when you might deliberately want to install the cam with different amounts of advance (using an offset key). The only way to do this is by degreeing. Some people seem to just want the lopey idle and don't care about...

I found that I needed to use washers to shim it tight. The pivot bushing was fine, it just had too much free play on the bolt. And to answer the question, yes, I have a 67, but it has a reinforced 68 K-frame so has the through-bolt idler.

Is it for the torsion bar springs that hold the lid open?

I think finding an A-body 8-3/4 would simplify things. But there are a lot of 440 Barracudas around. I know one that looks basically stock, and one with a full tube front end. So there are options...

My question would be, what caused the timing to "go off"? If you were driving it, and it just died, how do you explain it? One possibility is that you slipped the timing chain. To determine this, I think you need a more accurate determination of TDC than the thumb method. Go ahead and pull the...

Member Jim Lusk should be able to answer all your questions.

I stumbled across that same post a while back. Anyway, you can see that the regular slant six cable is the longest by far. I used the street Hemi cable on my 2bbl conversion, but it's still a little long. If you have the BB installed, just lay out the slant cable and measure how much too long it...

It is probably way too long. You could just buy a stock replacement V8 cable -- I don't think SB/BB would make much difference in length.

Mobil1 15W50 has over 1200ppm ZDDP, and it's available off the shelf at O'Reilly's. I don't like additives because 1) you forget, and 2) when you top off the oil you don't get any.

You could fab up a "through bolt" biscuit. The metal pad on each side has one hole (no alignment bump) plus an extra-long stud that goes all the way through the rubber block and sticks out the other side. Cut a piece of rubber to the thickness you need and drill two holes through it. Sandwich...

I use Mobil1 synthetic 15w50. This particular weight includes 1500ppm of zinc to protect flat tappets. It is specifically designed for older flat tappet engines, not for modern engines with cats. I use it rather than Brad Penn or other specialty oil because it's easy to find at local auto parts...

...the 67 idler arm is much more expensive, and if damaged, it tends to mess up the socket in the K-frame, which is not really repairable, other than in the sense that you can fix anything if you have enough money.