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Apples to apples. Aluminum heads cam with compression got a chance nuff said.

If no leaks, run engine without radiator cap until warms up. Sounds like a little indigestion.....

What rear gear sounds good.

IMO, Ignition components,timing or fuel issues.... to start

Yep. I'm gettin mine on the road with 9.5 clutch Cause it was all new.5.2 magnum swap. Next if I keep car 10.5 clutch setup with hydraulic slave with short headers.

I may be wrong but on my big blocks Moderate compression big duration Cams run better with low cfm mechanical secondary carbs. No vacuum.straight advance + little nos Dont ask me how I know.

Do you recall what cam was in that 318, if other than stock?

And too much carb...…. FWIW, Ive tried 650,600 holleys on BB tunnel ram set up. Finally was able to tune holley 450's runs the best... especially on street.

Coil power wire not right. ballast hook up as well. Not to be an *** but. Ecu kit worth your $

Welcome and nice pair of Mopars! Im a little biased toward the notch... of course....LOL As far as the notch stock performance...Future big block set up and 8 3/4 rear sure grip with some gear... and youll be happy you did. Dave

What do the plugs look like? Getting fuel? Get it running and turn distributor slowly one way, if engine starts to die turn other direction.( with vac advance unhooked and hose plugged) Finding a spot where rpms rise and where you can adjust idle down get to run at lowest rpm without dieing...

If it says good to -35 your fine. Ive seen a little slush over the years in extreme temps but no damage.......

Seems lean after engine to temp. try retarding abit. cam duration?

solid lifters, better know what pushrods you need.let alone springs, rocker ratio deck height, cam specs .advance thats about it......

I ditched electric fan setup in High comp. BB 67 cuda years ago with same overheating issues like OP. Got aftermarket fan,moved closer to radiator(3 core alum.) and made custom aluminum shroud Made car at least drivable. Still cant leave running a long time sitting without driving..........

Did engine seem to misfire at all when getting hot? Have to agree with a vacuum leak, as already mentioned.

A little late but I don't think you're going to see a difference on a stock setup. Unless you have 3.23 gears or higher. And or with a stall convertor. In a perfect world bigger rear tires.

With right cam setup and stall TC/ rear gear, you can have low end power on street with tunnel ram and small carbs. Ask me how I know.....Especially BB.

Maybe I missed it, but how does this engine perform currently? Under load? As is.

No flow, no go..... simple

Better have alot of money or alot of nitrous...............

Will definitely mellow out high duration cam at idle. Did the swap on bigblock had to retard timing to get the idle back but boy the rpm ramp was a big difference. Instant cam change. Without the hassle. Giving up choppy idle for quicker rev, easy decision for me.

If you dont have above 400HP those TB's are fine

Did you start engine with no belts? Belts aligned ? Id start there. Sounds like a pulley bearing

Sounds like a rod bearing

Im not an expert by no means but anything above .022 doesnt seem right for solid lift cam. Could be wrong though. D.

No pcv. Valve

In this case, I think it accellerates cleaner with timed vacuum port vs manifold, on spark advance set at 15* initial. Havent had time yet,(weather) to mess around with advance timing combos/ carb/linkage adjustments. I still think theres a little room for improvement yet. But its running...

I will experiment with both, Thanks

Correct ,manifold vacuum too far advanced at idle. Ported vacuum used