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1- 3/4" 36 spline × 3/4" DD was on 65 dart manual steer.chrome. 1- gm rack 5/8" 36 spline x 3/4"DD Black Learned the hard way. $20 plus ship.each Ty Dave

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Or 3:31

Ride height throws all specs out. Need someone who knows about this and align it to to what ride height owner desires. 14 to 15 inch wheels radials. If you want the car pointing to the ground stock specs might work. Best you can do with mods.

See If it might be stuck or its pre- 1967? Lengthening wouldnt be difficult if you have lot of $ tied up in column. D.

In my case I think I cut the tube down for clearance reasons. And then decided from there just to find a bearing to fit and it worked out fine

Ive done frame rail before , if I were do again, Id start with a better car....LOL. If your problem is rail mount and suspension only..... Your lucky. Can buy patch parts as mentioned previous. All good if done properly. Dave

No I dont few years ago. But Believe shaft is 5/8" or 3/4" and tube I.d. is? Should be able to measure............ common size bearing to get quickly. Dave.

Not sure if it helps but I got a bearing from napa that fit both shaft and tube. I just crimped outer tube around bearing near edge and punched tube a couple places around inside set of sealed bearing. Actually was smoother than stock IMO. Dave

Better yet start your own safety thread and start by bitching at people putting modified Big Blocks in early a bodies with a single peashooter master cylinder with drum brakes. Id be much more worried about that.

Maybe need to look at post #12 for street use overall....

I never would drive one of these cars modified more than 75 miles an hour without frame supports that's silly

The ujoint couplers I use have D shaft hole for reason you said. Need to grind down both sides of shaft to allow entry into joint lockdown. allen key and locknut cant possibly spin. I'm just trying to show people other options out there. basically all rack pinion use this D.

Agree. I guess I should have stated for a car that's driven a few hours a week or so. In my case Between that and already outdated safety issues on the vehicles construction compared to today. I guess everybody enjoying the older cars has to think about that at some point.

Agree. U joint never side to side(steering play) slop and a lot easier to put on take off and even adjust if need be.

This particular one was an aftermarket one for 28 bucks I have to grind down the shaft a little bit to get it to fit but I flaming river has them with longer slip joint for easier install but youll pay for it but still worth it. Dave

Dont know why people shy away from a future maintenance problem.......... IMO. No Brainer here. No slop. Just cut shaft about 1.5" drill hole if need to or allen key and lock nut provide stability. $30 part D

Not sure of dimensions. I thought it was 3/4". Either way you can get from Grainger.Mcann or others for way cheaper unless you care for stainless? Dave

Yes, Its all I use recently. No Maintenance, no grease, no play, easy on/off + a smidge adjustment....IMHO Dave

Are those pics with the car on ground totally?

I would try to find a body 8 3/4 driveshaft or at least use 8 3/4 driveshaft cut to fit vs. stock if any type of horsepower in engine.

I would say thats your vibration issue.... do not drive until repaired, unsafe. And as others said, brake shoes are breaking apart and need replaced.

If your steering wheel is shaking while braking, most of the time its front suspension issues. You could have bad drums without steering wheel shake, and you would feel more vibe on your foot.

Just spring perches moved in and re welded to housing 1/2" or 3/4" depending on kit. By the way, that car sounds awesome,and familiar....LOL

Depends on your cars street only driving or not

There is a difference between doing things right or doing things smart. If someone drives their classic car 3X a month,doesnt drag race it and dont want or have the money to waste on rims and tires. Just to do the right thing. And have to resell SBP wheels that nobody wants when your finally...

3/16 " shouldn't be a problem banging one spring outward With bolts loose on that side with car jacked on frame.

Get a u- joint conversion to eliminate an eventual problem. Same or cheaper price. If not worried about being stock item.

Depends on power. Don't matter what you use. I have frame connectors and homemade Fender well supports and still cracked windshield on 67 BB cuda.

Years ago i used 2, 1" o.d. steel pipes welded to 2, 1/4" plates and bolted thru torsion frame and to back leaf mounts. For both sides. cost about $50. Been on car for 25 years now. Food for thought. Dave