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Wow, OK. So it sounds like they may indeed change mixes. I would think that would be a ROYAL PITA in the factory..... I am familiar with diesel mixes changes.. I have had southern Indiana diesel gel up on me near Ft Wayne one cold winter day. And all of this started because we did see consistent...

Thought this might be of some general interest. I have a 2016 Ram CTD and I wanted to know with certainty the OEM water-antifreeze mix ratio before going to the northern Rockies in the dead of winter, where -50F shows up from time to time. I got a simple refractometer from the internet...

That's different! I hope a rock don't get it!

Very nice; that is very good work and fabrication. It looks like the bearing length is the same so the loads won't stress it any more or wear it out any faster.

You're catching on..... the reports of 'I used such and so' don't tell the story at all. The fans, spacing from the rad, shrouds, hood seal to rad core support, engine compartment size, head material type, headers or not, and compression ratio all play into something working or not. Example...

Yep, I was reeeal careful with polarity when testing and installing for this very reason when I replaced the clutch on my '07 Ram.

That is a serious looking shroud guy!

Just looking at the 2nd pix in the 2nd pix group, the crank pulley looks to be smaller than the WP pulley......it is almost totally hidden by the WP pulley but you can see it.

As above.... start with checking you actual temps using in infrared temp sensor pointed at the upper hose, t'stat housing, and upper tank. No need fixing everything else if the gauge is inaccurate. Under what conditions exactly does it run hot? At idle in traffic, or at higher speed cruise in...

- What aluminum radiator do you have? Their cooling abilities vary all over the map. - And what flex fan brand/model? - And as asked in post #2, under what conditions does this occur? In slow traffic in town, or at highway speeds? This answer is important in pointing to the right solution. -...

Since you are not trying to keep all OEM parts, then a new coil makes the most sense to me.

The belts are ALWAYS going to loosen a bit on the slack side when a load is applied. In this case, the 'load applied' is the compressor being turned on. The slack side will be the side between the compressor pulley and the crank pulley. If the belts are not hardened up, then I'd tighten them up...

Part of the purpose of the plastic tanks is to electrically insulate the AL rad core from the chassis. Unlike brass rads, where the electrolytic corrosion concentrates in the iron block, an AL rad gets the brunt of the natural electrolytic corrosion, and breaking the electrical connection to the...

We have a 22" wide 3 row Champion in a '65 Cuda, 340 with AL heads, mild cam, headers, and I am not impressed with that size Champion in that application. It has 3 rows of 3/4" tubes. It gets too hot on the interstate, so the flow of air and/or coolant is too low. This is with a high flow...

I'll guess that the plug is rusted through after so many years so stop leak may not help. And besides, if the rad has any near-clgos in the tubes, they can clog closed with stop-leak. It won't be too easy; you have to get some working room. I would be pulling the trans tube and fitler and...

We all gotta be good at sumpthin' LOL So 72blunblu, I finally see where you said the Controur fan is only good for 26" rads. I guess that is out, with that and thickness. Not sure I am doing you much good OP. if you have not read this thread, then please do so, and look at post #6: My 360 is...

Roger that. But, we switched to a 5.2" crank pulley and dropped the water pump speed by 15-20% and did not see any change in idle engine temps. (Using a Mildon high flow pump.) I just don't think a 10% underdrive is the likely issue in this case.

Ok, well, my educated guess is that this is a fan that will have the free-air flow rating of 2010 cfm drop pretty badly when put in front of or behind a rad. There are a few with that type of design that flow OK but most do not. Being an inexpensive fan is another indicator that it is likely not...

Maybe 72blunblu can point you to his write-up on the Contour electric fan setup.

Like this reversible one maybe? It is 16" diameter. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-381120/overview/

OK, well at least you know. Being able to feel the air is meaningless; none of us can tell how much air is flowing from just what hits our hands, and the amount of airflow is the problem. I thought you posted a pix of the rad and fan on front but did nto see it today... am I just imagining...

As an FYI, one thing that has been going on is that the large irregular hole in the front of the head gasket is actually where the head gasket has corroded out. The original does not have a hole there; it is solid there to block coolant flow. When they have been in a car for 30-40 years, they...

Since it is there, it wojn't hurt to try. But I don't expect success. The model number on your fan was requested, not just that it is 'high volume from Summit' . The best I can make of that is that it is one of those very poor electric fans, the flow of which will drop into the toilet when it is...

Can you provide the part number and brand of the pusher fan? I can kinda see part of it in your avatar pix.) There are a lot of cheap junk fans out there that cannot flow any real useful amount of air through the restriction of a 3 row rad. Their flow ratings are for free flow, and their airflow...

Yep, I am realizing that this is the hard part of comparing cooling solutions: there are a number of variables that usually don't get mentioned. We need to start asking all the particulars like we do with engines and trannies.

I am beginning to suspect that part of the highway speed cooling 'equation' is the engine compartment size and subsequent air flow. We are dealing with a smaller compartment than your later Duster. There is nothing especially constrictive in the engine compartment: 340 small block, AL heads...

Bingo.....

I am probably going to switch my son's car away from a Champion to a Griffin 1.25" tube cross flow rad. They run around $275, not the $620 that the direct fit Griffins cost. So 72Blunblu needs to recognize that there are multiple lines in the Be-Cool and Griffin brands, and IMHO is unfairly...

Int.eresting you brought this up..... we are pretty much at the same spot and have concluded the generally high under hood temps are causing issues in the air-fuel mix. Some sort of cool air intake will be coming along. Getting the excess hot air out from under the hood is more of a challenge...

All I can say on the ECP rad is that 2 1" rows of tubes ought to cool a bit better than 3 rows of 3/4" tubes. Also, the core height is a bit better than the 'unknown brand' 3 row in my son's car. On net, maybe 15% better, as best as I can compute. Being in Texas, you'll be pushing the heat...