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Isn't Valvoline VR1 a high zinc oil good for street use?

THANKS, moderators! All the offers coming in to help out are awesome!

I have a 340 bored .030 40 years ago as well as a set of ForgedTrue I believe 12.0 to 1 pistons that are that old and new as well. Just looking to put it together finally as just an occasional play toy. I have a set of X heads & a set of J heads, Years ago I tried to port the X heads & ground...

Yes, an engine I used, years back it spun a rod bearing on 7 and 8 journal & got tight, it has been sitting a number of years since then. I believe it spun the bearing because of the oil filter adapter gaskets being put on incorrectly & dirt getting in the oil. The bearings in # 2 look the same...

#4 main bearing cap just slides into the block & actually you can hold the 2 sides of the cap & slightly twist it just a very small bit. The other 4 caps you have to lightly tap them into the block. Is this #4 cap OK?

I believe Tony Richards passed away not long ago. Thank You for the information.

Looking to get a block square decked & other work done I have no idea of a good quality shop in or around the Denver area. Thanks for the advice!

^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ I think I would have been running! :lol:

And what did you find?

Just my .02, I would mark the dist. pull it out, disconnect the wire @ the starter so it won't crank the engine & just turn it by hand till you get the spark issue figured out then reinstall. I hate issues on the first fire up!

Ding ding ding, I have a 69 340 Swinger that occasionally I would street race it in the late 70's, well one night it put a pushrod thru the rocker arm, I limped it home & let it sit in the garage & forgot about it. It had only water in it (OHIO) Like mentioned above they crack in the lifter...

Get #3 cylinder up at TDC and put air into the cylinder, listen to where the air is blowing out. If it comes out the exhaust, it's a bad exh. valve, if it comes out the intake, than intake valve, out the crankcase than hole in piston with as low as the reading is.

I tried looking around on here and the internet and could not find much information on a guestimate as to what a pair of these brand new bare heads in their boxes are worth? P3870812 W-2 heads. Thanks for any input!

This is what he gave me for specs. on my A 6 300H cam for my LA cam No problem, sold them for years. It's for a small block Mopar, I guess you knew that. It's 300° duration, .507 lift.110° centerline, .000 valve lash since it's a hydraulic.G/K always said anything over .486 valve lift needed...

Keep SAVING!!!!

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Any more pictures of it, some being a side view. I believe a cast crank dampner will say cast crank somewhere on it but, not 100% sure.

All that was mentioned above! And I like the ATF also!

A 1977 factory service manual FSM does not give a torque value for motor mounts to block or insulators to mount for a LA or RB however, they do have specs for a slanty which uses the same size bolts: 7/16" x 20 NF bolts for the mounts to block: 45' lb. 1/2" X 20 NC stud for the insulator...

Good that it's broke in already, it's fun to do the first start but, can be a pain in the rear also if it doesn't fire right up and you end up wipping out a cam.

That would be maybe 270" pounds on the converter bolts. Wow, solid motor mounts OUCH! I guess it won't go anywhere though! I first like to start off knowing exactly where the engine is sitting. I usually set it at TDC #1 when I put it in, then count all revolutions you turn it to bolt up...

LOL No flaming involved there Kimmer!!!

x2 And it helps keep condensation out of the oil.

I believe this is Brian and his business IQ52 http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=249866&page=3

Come on now, lets be positive. My 340 in my 69 Swinger has been sitting for 14 years now in a garage. One day soon I hope to bring it back to life.

Dang EPA anyways! I almost got in trouble with them on a radiator shop A guy had in a building I used to own.

Wow, the weight savings must be enormous!

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