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Agree with a above. Same thing happened to me. I had led and no turn without led flashers. Ended up going with bulbs recommended by @slantsixdan for turn and brake bulbs.

I have a fitech and welded in the 4 spd hump with just the negative on the battery disconnected. Not sure if anything would removed.

I have rewired the car using an EZ wire wiring kit and want to add a the brake light indicator from the block safety switch. Just trying to understand how the bulb gets power. My thinking is: Bulb gets 12v one side and the ground goes to the switch on the block and the block also goes to...

@dart_man440 check this out. https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/holley-sniper-small-block-distributor-etc.534459/#post-1974192387

MSD Pro Billet will work. It has to be locked out and add adjustable rotor to work with timing control. I personally would wait for the Hyperspark if you are new to efi tuning. It's suppose to make it easy, drop in and go.

I've bought from them. Bulbs are reasonable and bright.

Gotcha.

The only thing I could think of is the hyper spark comes prephased (used in conjunction with the sniper) for ease of timing control. However it is a hall effect style dist. vs the magnetic pickup. I was more curious if the hall effect style would even work with the Proflo. I know the Fitech only...

Lots of info packed into your posts. Are you saying you ultimately moved to a Holley Hyperspark distributor WITH the Proflo 4? And just adjust the timing settings in the handheld and leave the distributor alone?

Gotcha. It's pretty tight now with the MSD. Lol.

So it doesn't need modified unless you wanted to?

Do you have to use the Edelbrock distributor? I have an msd pro-billet locked out with the adjustable rotor already. I'm running fitech, but am considering swapping to the proflo. I didn't want to have to modify the dist. or the manifold tho.

Are you saying you don't have power to the wiper motor after everything is wired but that last terminal? Have you tested the wipers? I believe that last terminal is for back up lights. I re wired my car with an EZ wire kit (very similar) and didn't use that terminal, due to the aftermarket...

Not sure. Post #10 started it. He looks like a new member, so he could have found it and commented.

This thread is a year old. Lol. Thanks, guys but it's working like it should. The wiring diagram he gave is correct, I just needed an electronic flasher for LED be bulbs in the tail and park lights.

No, it was definitely the bulbs. I kept them and put in an electric flasher and they work perfect.

Ok. So no led. What happening with the hazards? Are you sure it's wired correctly? See thread linked above. It gives the correct wiring diagram.

Are you using led bulbs? Check out my thread sometime back. EZ wiring Turn Signal Wiring has me stumped.

Like anything, I don't think Optima is s good as they were. I could be speculating... I have a Vizio flat screen bought in 2008 for $900 and it still works perfectly. My wife wanted a smart tv, so logically we bought a Vizio. Biggest piece of garbage. The sound stopped working, had to factory...

@mopar56 Link to the lights? I wonder how they are at night.

Can you elaborate on this?

Thanks everyone, I am using a relay for the pump,so I can interrupt the coil, which I think is 85 on the relay.

I want to put in a anti theft device on the ground circuit of my fuel pump. Can I just get a two prong switch, and wire it in series of the ground circuit? My thinking is when it is off, the circuit won't be completed, therefore no power to pump, flip it on and circuit completed. Am I thinking...

You're not going to get 12V in Crank from the fuse box. Everything goes dead in Crank, except for IGN 2. Trust me, I've been down this road. Test it... Put a meter on whatever dose block wire and watch the voltage as you crank. If you don't have 12v in crank, the box won't fire.

superbrightleds.com Put them in my brake/turn, reverse and front park/blinker in amber. They are stupid bright. I'll see if I can get a pic.

So I was showing my father in law and it wouldn't fire with jumping the relay at first. It took a few tries . So I think with all the key on and off (with out start) it flooded. I am going to disable the prime shot and run the test a few more times as well as the battery positive to 12v run...

Ok @67Dart273 Here are the tests I did: Battery voltage : Key On Engine Off: 12.51v Key off Engine off: 12.66v Voltage at ign 1 + ign 2: Key off Engine Off: 0.27v Key on Engine off: 12.61v While cranking with key, with coil wire removed: 10.89v

Your right. Lol. I have ign 1 and ign 2 jumped together now. I'll check that voltage while cranking today. I have relays already on the high and low beams and my fuel pump. Is my drawing above correct for how to wire a relay for the ign?

Here is how I am thinking of wiring the relay. Will this work?

I have rewired my car with an EZ wire kit and have added MSD ignition along with FItech EFI. Now I wired the car per EZ wire instructions, which gives me 12V on their "coil wire" in RUN and CRANK which I used to feed my MSD and FItech. The car will fire and then die when using the key...