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I don't know that the wheel opening changed, but in 70, the area around the bumper did....

Take a cordless Sawzall to a junkyard ..... I'll be cutting up a 72 duster shell in the spring, cuz we need the roof. Shipping would be a killer from MD to TX.

My 2 cents... if you have a guy willing to do a straight up trade, check it out . If his front clip is as clean as yours and includes everything you need to make yours right again, then I would get both cars together on a Saturday, each of you bring a friend and make the swap. You get...

Lca's were gone by the time we got there

We are not doing anything to it until late Spring, but sometimes I just think ahead. It's what I do. Never being a body man, but having enough amateur skill to be dangerous, answer me this with your thoughts.... The Dart Sport we let my 14 year old son bring home needs a roof. We expected that...

It did take a couple of days to dry completely. I didn't touch it for a week, just to be sure. I wasn't too sure about the outcome the day I shot it, but the longer it dried the better it looked. By day 3, I was really pleased.

Didn't even think about it, honestly. Being a rookie, I stuck with Rustoleum's guideline. If I ever get around to having my trailer blasted, I'll experiment with it.

3:1 ratio for both the primer and the paint. 42 psi to the gun with the primer and 38 psi to the gun for the paint. YouTube taught me. LOL

Shot the Shelby with Rustoleum primer and Rustoleum paint with a Harbor Freight purple gun. Reduced with acetone. 1st vehicle I've shot. Was hoping for a 20 footer. Ended up with a 5-10 footer.

This June, I painted my Dakota with Rustoleum and a Harbor Freight purple gun at 35psi. Very slight orange peel. Maybe cut the inlet air pressure down next time? I got the 5-footer I was going for, as this will be a daily driver and Drivers Ed truck for my soon to be 15 yr old son.

So does that simply mean no harm, no foul? Or will my budget learning experience be a fail?

Well, 10 hours later and it's looking smoother and a lot more shiny. :thumbsup:

It is enamel. I guess my rookie-ness will find out over time how it holds up.....

Leave it alone, it is. I am/was not prepared for a 24 hr clear. Lol. Told you I'm a rookie.

So I went with the ever so cheap Rustoleum paint job on the Dakota this morning. Added a urethane hardener. Turned out pretty ok for a rookie. Slight orange peel here and there. Looks good at 5 feet and way good at 10 feet, so I accomplished goal. Should I clear coat it or not? Do I wet...

Funny thing I just noticed. When I clicked on your eBay link, it said I already bought it and gave me a choice to buy again. It is the same seller my son bought from. Seller was cool about the refund when it all went down. I just found it interesting that it wasn't worth his effort for an...

That looks like it is made th way the one I just put on my Shelby Dakota. Consider it a 25 footer. The snorkel openings are not totally symetrical. The finish was pretty good. It is a little wave in spots. All of the mounting bosses were lower than the bottom edge and had to be cut flush...

I am doing that very thing to my Shelby Dakota. Always loved the Dart Sport scoop. Ended up with a free aftermarket one a couple of years ago, so I picked up a spare hood to mount the scoop to, so I don't run my original hood. I am currently putting a thrown together 360 with a 2 inch carb...

Ya know.... I didn't necessarily like the original color when I bought it 2 years used in 2007. I was shopping year, mileage and Cummins. Color didn't matter and the day I bought it, I said if it was new it would be a form of red. LOL

And today it came home from paint!!!

Forgot to post the patchwork done and getting ready for paint prep...

So I was able to make a smaller opening on the left side. Keeps me away from the fuel door. Cut the patch panel down to size. Got the inner/other wheelhouses done this evening. Bought a pneumatic flange maker. A helluva lot easier to flange than with the vise grip looking flange tool I've had...

Angled. Shortest distance between 2 points is a straight line. Made for less welding/grinding. Left side should be a smaller opening in the bed side, but I'll have more work inside once I open it up.

On a serious note, the left side looks much better from the outside, but both the inner and outer wheelhouse is gone, along with the rails/supports under the bed where it rests on the frame behind the wheel. The only thing holding the bed up in the center are the 5th wheel brackets. The frame is...

I'm never happy with rattle can primer, makes it loom wavy, but it's only temporary until I get the other side done and prep the whole bed for paint. It is pretty damn straight. I have 2 small low spots that I'll address when I do the other side. And I'm not showing you my welding skills...

Make sure the door is aligned properly to the quarter first . Then work on shimming the fender accordingly.

Yes Jackie. Same holes as the originals. I thought the same thing. I might close them up.

Bring that puppy to the East Coast salt/snow winters, Kern Dog.....lol. since the right side is worse, and I don't see that side as often, I decided to do one 45-is and one 90 to see which I like better.

Appreciate all the tips and hints, folks!

Not necessarily disagreeing with you... if only Texas wasn't a 5 day round trip.