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Great thread Rice Nuker, I just got done reading through it in it's entirety. Muriatic acid is wonderful stuff, and I can't even begin to tell you how many motorcycle gas tanks I've saved using it, plus it makes expensive "Rust Dissolve" products look like a joke. It is potent though and will...

Not at all, the only stupid people are the ones that know it all and refuse to learn. If it was run dry, there's nothing you can do about it now and you'd know if there were damage.

Just put in as much water as can come out the radiator drain and you'll be fine as long as the engine wasn't run hot and dry first. I do this when breaking in a cam in a new engine to keep it cool and have never, ever had a problem. Once again though, you don't want to run cold water into an...

Well done! Just do without until you can. There is no magic fix that lasts forever and your carpet and floorboards will love you for it.

Fans are rated to a specific rpm range and as long as you keep it under that rating, you should be fine. The flex fan on my RC is rated to 6k which is fine as the cam is really only good to about 5500 anyway. If a driveshaft broke or the trans let go, I would replace the fan.

If it's a high mileage engine, I've seen the coolant passages partially blocked at the head gasket with white crud. That's usually a "My car runs hot all the time" issue though.

Very interesting Barge and it most certainly looks great! Will heat have any effect on the epoxy?

Inverted flare fittings are measured different than NPT. OD vs. ID. You won't find a 1/4" inverted flare to AN. Bring your fitting that fits to the hardware store like Blown mentions and match it up and take note of the size.

That is most certainly a female inverted flare, not 1/4 NPT. I can't tell what the size is from just a picture but it's probably a 5/16 or 1/2 inverted flare fitting. Here's a link to all of Summits inverted flare to AN adapters. Summit's customer service is stellar. If you give them a call...

I'd call Summit and ask them what's up. If the description says 1/4" NPT for the cooler fittings, that's what it should be.

Sounds like the head gasket is leaking to me.

Heli-coil it. http://www.helicoil.in/

Why not go with this style of hose? They are just about burst proof, look great and hold any shape you bend them too. They are really pricey though... http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2D390124&N=700+%2D113701+115&autoview=sku

Shane, I would retorque both heads before using any type of additive. Better to heal the wound than band-aid it. Barrs leak does work but it also coats the inside of radiator (and everything else) and reduces heat transfer. What type of head gasket did you use and did you have the head...

Don't mean to bum you out Tim but that post is 9 months old.

Nope, no Dart across the street but I did see a '69 maybe '70 torino on the same block. I'll PM you were I'll be. Oversized three car garage, that's what sold me. I'm going to call the guy tomorrow and just take it. No for rent sign yet as he just bought it and is now getting it ready to go...

Cool, doubleing the clamps was part of the plan. BTW, I may be moving into your neighborhood. Don't think of it as bad luck, It's just fate, lol. :)

It's just for the truck and if I do it right, the pipe shouldn't even show. It's no numbers matching resto so worm drive clamps are used throughout anyway. I just wanted to know if anyone had any leaks or hose pop-off problems using this method. believe me, it'll look better than the rube...

Anyone ever just use a piece of 3/4 NPT pipe for a $1.25 for this fitting rather than pay Mopar Performance $30 plus shipping? Even a piece this size in brass is only $7.50.

Ray, The future Mrs. Ramcharger says "You're welcome! Let us know how it turns out". :yawinkle:

OK, just talked to Lori. She had this to say. "Any time the air conditioning system is opened (exposed to the atmosphere), the dryer must be replaced, especially in Florida! The problem isn't leftover R12 but oil and moisture contamination. Also, the dryer should be the very last item to be...

My fiance' and I were just having this exact discussion this weekend. I had mentioned that I had converted to R134a and that I should have evacuated the system first as the vent temperature rises when I'm at idle. She asked me if I had replaced the dryer. I said no and she said to be prepared...

If there is a high volume water pump installed, it may prevent the t-stat from opening. A high flow stat is required.